For sartorialists with a soft spot for traditional weaves, Sanjay Garg’s Raw Mango is a familiar name. Some might even have his designs on their wishlist if not in their wardrobes. Last week, he launched his latest collection, Cloud People, in Hyderabad which he describes as ensembles that “invoke a celestial spell, bringing winged messengers and unearthly spirits – mythical symbols of hope and guardianship.” The designer, whose label is based out of Delhi, has dressed the likes of Deepika Padukone and Sonam Kapoor recently. However, what makes his designs even more coveted are that some of them have been looked at as work of art. Last September his work was presented as a part of a fashion display at the Museum of Modern Art, New York titled, Items: Is Fashion Modern?. He spoke to us about Cloud People and this is what he had to say:
.jpg?w=640&auto=format%2Ccompress)
Do tell us what are the highlights of Cloud People?
Originating in the Awadh region, chikankaari is thought to consist of approximately 36 stitches which create works of relief, shadow and drawn thread. Its limited use as a decorative element and as daraz – two separate pieces of cloth joined together – can be both functional and decorative. My latest collection reinterprets this embroidery, which traditionally features florals and paisley motifs with a vocabulary that explores new renditions.
What was your experience of working with chikankaari like?
For me, chikankaari is synonymous with paisley and you will see a lot of it in my latest
collection. One can spot minute details on the ensembles like soft feathers and scalloped clouds of angels in flight, made in handcrafted chikankaari on fabrics such as Bengal mul, zardozi and brocade. I’m not new to embroidery but new to the territory of chikankaari. Working with artisans is always a brilliant experience. We are talking about people who have been working with this embroidery for generations.
What kind of outfits, silhouettes and cuts can one expect from Cloud People?
This time I have done a mix of separates like trousers, kurtas and saris. The matching separates, I must say, looks quite chic.
Your collection has some exquisite motifs. Tell us what they are inspired by?
My motifs are mostly inspired from nature. It took me a lot of time to bring chikankaari from chiffon and georgette to cotton. This time, we have also ditched the classic paisley motif and instead have chosed to go with chikankari. And you can see different interpretations of it in the outfits this time.
What is the colour palette used for your autumn/winter collection? Also, we hear, you have used a fair bit of sheer...
Since Cloud People is all about the celestial, you will see a lot of whites. We also get to see interesting use of sheer in this collection. I have taken textured beaten metallics and attempted to give them a raw soul. The angelic motifs can be seen here too, along with floral prints and geometric figures. However, this time against a much richer, Indian colour palette.
Lastly, you have a large number of patrons in Hyderabad. When are you coming down?
I’ve always had the best time showcasing in Hyderabad. The market is new and has responded tremendously well to all my collections. I will be making my visit to the city very soon.
Rs 9, 000 onwards. His team can be contacted on+ 91 97171-31351 for custom made options.