Roti navigation in the dark

Lose all sense of control and your mobile phone at the door.
Roti navigation in the dark

I am holding on to someone’s shoulder. Don’t ask me who. But it’s the only thing I know for certain is in front of me. The fine folks who run ‘Taste of Darkness’ — a brand new concept restaurant in the city where you eat in the pitch black, have relieved me of my bag and cellphone. So, an SOS text is out of the window. Somebody a few feet ahead has had his watch taken. The way this immersive dining experience works is that all light emitting devices are removed from your person. We move like a train, arms outstretched, clinging on to the instructions of our visually impaired guide like its the Holy Grail. The experience in Chennai has been a long-awaited project of Dialogue in the Dark India, ever since they set up a  guided exhibition in the dark at Express Avenue two years ago. Started by husband and wife SV Krishnan and Sudha in 2011, this is the third such concept restaurant in the country after branches in Hyderabad and Raipur. With no history of visual impairment in the family, the company was inspired after Krishnan had a life changing 45 minutes in one such darkened restaurant in Atlanta and quickly called his wife to share the excitement.  


‘Just another left here’ ... we hear, as one seems to wind around a steep bend. After what seems to be an eternity later, we hear: ‘And feel in front of you for your seat.’ I gingerly reach my palm out, worried that my behind might land on some Chicken 65 by accident. Fortunately, all goes smoothly. Pretty soon, I find myself tuning into the loud voices of those at adjoining tables. At first, this is fun. Someone yells: “Saaptangila da?” on one end. And raucous laughter at some poor bloke who is evidently scared somewhere up ahead.

SV Krishnan
SV Krishnan

The most common question we get from people is,
‘Will I be able to eat in the dark?’ We tell people,
as long as you can find your mouth — you’re good.
— SV Krishnan, Founder, Dialogue in the Dark India

My female friend and I though come with a little more muscle. Dark room aside, what we weren’t prepared for is that our intended plan of catching up on gossip is now a mute prospect. When in the dark after all, you are as audible as a person at a table on the far side of the room. Or so it feels. Also, more importantly, you don’t know who is listening. So we move on to our menu instead. Instead of an elaborate hard-bound list of options, this one is compact enough to carry in your pocket. It’s a token. Given to us on entry, the token determines whether we have ordered a vegetarian or non-vegetarian meal. You simply place it on the tray in front of you for the waiter to take your order.

Walk this way
If you don’t have an appetite but still want a plunge-in-the dark walkthrough, try the walk-through exhibition that is run in the same venue. Between a bridge that shudders beneath you and playing cricket in the ‘pitch black’ — dull moments are a far cry.

Perhaps the only let-down on this mysterious sensory trip so far is that the food takes ages to arrive. But when it does come — we discover by touch, packed in a steel tiffin carrier, the curiosity and wonder is back. Our focus sits right there with it with no distractions but the aroma of what lies within. There’s an assortment of roti, a vegetable biryani, aloo mutter and finally, a separate little bowl of raitha. Plastic cutlery is clung on to as tightly as those pink 2,000 rupee notes we got earlier this year. Lest you lost them in the dark. Maneuvering not one plate, but four utilitarian bowls seems like an advanced level dine-in-the-dark encounter. But we warrior on.
Unexpectedly at times, a chunk of potato lands in your spoon — and one feels like a gleeful child who has just been handed a surprise present. It’s the little things that you pick up on. When the time comes to leave, we’re not left with swelling bellies or culinary commentary.


Instead, we step out into the light, blink and smile. Round two, please?   

Entry in batches. Seats 28. At Express Avenue Mall. Price: Rs299 for vegetarian and `349 for non-vegetarian plus taxes. Details: 28464870.

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