There’s a Coromandel Finance, Coromandel Textiles, Coromandel Eng- ineering,” Kiran Rao lists over the phone. “There’s a Taj Coromandel,” we offer. “Oh yes, but that’s a hotel not a restaurant,” she points out... We’ve just returned from a weekend in Puducherry and with it a memorable evening at the lovely Coromandel Cafe. Those who know their history may recognise that the name is inspired by its location on the Coromandel coast, one of the prominent spice routes for the British and Portuguese over 400 years ago. In homage of the place's origins, expect to find contemporary weavings of local flavour in the most unlikely of places — like fresh coriander and green chillies in your vermouth or a Tamarind and Ginger glazed chicken. We enjoy the surprise touch of sweetness that a dash of jaggery adds to the sticky tamarind-ginger sauce. The bigger surprise though is that the chef just so happens to be British!
Leading us around the over-century-old property (once a Franco-Tamil magistrate’s house) — the very pretty Jay Adams was brought on board to run the kitchen by a friend-of-a friend shortly after the space opened its doors last December and makes a mean Eggs Benedict. Noticeably, this is one of those dishes that stands out because, it’s hot pink!
Another quirky tribute, although this time not to the place but the property that is called La Maison Rose after its rose-pink walls on the exterior. Flipping through the menu, we find other accents of pink peeking though from a Posh ‘n’ Pink Taglietelle to a Rose petal martini. “That last one is a big hit with expat guests,” Jay says, as we follow her around taking in the spacious interiors (at 10,000 sq feet you know we aren’t joking) with many a room to wander through, including a library on the ground level and a boutique upstairs. The format is similar to Amethyst, which Kiran began with in Chennai almost 15 years ago, right down to the garden seating outdoors.
What captivates us however is the gorgeous six-foot cloth chandelier that takes centre stage in the main dining area and has been deliberately lowered so guests have to walk around it, rather than under. There are Athangudi tiles on the floor for a traditional touch and the furniture, several of them antiques, are an assortment of Kiran’s own collection amassed over time from her travels. “I’m like a magpie,” admits Kiran on being drawn to beautiful things. She gives us an example, “Like some of the light fixtures we use at the café were originally on a ship, and they emit such beautiful light that I keep one my bedside as well.”
Eventually, we get back to our table. We’re greeted by a sampling of Golden Mushrooms on a toasted sourdough disc with pink cabbage, smoked tofu with sesame seeds in chilli-infused oil with a hint of peanut butter. It’s a myriad of flavours and textures — sweet, sour, rich and nutty all at the same time. The aforementioned Eggs Benedict is delicious, although we were disappointed that the bacon was burnt to a crisp. We also try their simple but classic Caramelized onion and Goat Cheese pizza, off a brand new list that is so fresh it isn’t on their printed menu yet. But what has us head-over-heels in love is the Pancake Stack. Now normally, the maple syrup poured on top has a saccharine effect on us, but this rendition with in-house made mascarpone hits the spot, apart from knocking it off the charts on the Instagram-metre. A smattering of almonds, cashews and sliced up bananas on top adds character to our happy ending. Who needs a prince when you’ve got pancakes right?
Meal for two Rs 1,000.