It’s always the most eagerly awaited show by the fashion fraternity and connoisseurs of style. The 26th batch of five Gen Next designers presented by INIFD opened Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018 with their style predictions for the coming season. The Gen Next programme has introduced the brightest names in the fashion industry for 13 years. Designers like Nachiket Barve, Rahul Mishra, Aneeth Arora, Masaba Gupta and many more have made an impressive impact on the Indian as well as the international fashion industry. The creativity of the new talented quintet on the ramp, dazzled the appreciative audience as they made copious notes about the new stars’ collections.
Ajay Kumar Singh – Creatively and socially relevant
Ajay Kumar Singh, the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai graduate, knew his fashion craft perfectly. His decade long experience with Yash Raj Films and Channel V had prepped him for the impressive debut at the Gen Next show. Ajay’s label ‘AUR’ presented a socially relevant message with his interesting creations. He was inspired by the imagination of mentally disabled children and turned their creations into his motifs. Using the wonderful Khadi with digitally printed graphics and dyed to perfection, Ajay further added Kantha detailing to complement the silhouettes. An electric blue textured coat looked perfect over a dusty, printed, cropped, top and long-sleeved shirt. The trio of layered white midi, feminine top, teamed with candy pink machined yoke and bolero, had numerous mix and match possibilities. Doodles of clouds for layered dresses, kurtas with biker jacket, pleated cropped pants, short peplum jacket, and crinkled appliquéd maxi were some more eye-catchers. Pleated palazzos, wide luxurious bolero and layered skirts completed the look.
For the girl on the move, Ajay Kumar Singh’s ‘AUR’ collection will be the perfect wardrobe addition.
Anurag Gupta – A Fashion Metamorphosis
Working with Khadi denim and Khadi linen, Anurag Gupta’s collection had an innovative inspiration. He looked at artist Maurits Cornelis Escher’s Day and Night Artwork, which pushed his creativity onto the high ground. There was an eye-catching play of silhouettes, forms, colours, motifs, fabrics and dyes that revealed a fashion metamorphosis on the catwalk. Having graduated from the Northern Indian Institute Fashion Technology and worked with India’s star designers like Manish Arora and Varun Bahl, Anurag’s fashion sensibilities were finely tuned. There was a relaxed vibe about the cropped pants in shades of indigo with discreet motifs. The double-breasted, short, printed jacket with imposing lapels added to the on- trend looks of the garment. Detailing was important as tabs on cuffs and cleverly constructed layered jackets, made a cool fashion statement ideal for the coming months. The jumpsuit with tiny embroidery and the asymmetric silhouettes of the garments were the characteristic look of the collection.
For a stylish wardrobe, when the mercury moves South, Anurag Gupta’s ensembles will make the trend quotient rise.
Kanika Sachdev – Fashion In Stories
Kanika Sachdev’s fashion credentials are solid having acquired a degree in Fashion Design from AID, New Delhi. To further upgrade her knowledge, she worked with fashion maestros, Anju Modi, Label Ritu Kumar and Varun Bahl. Kanika’s ‘Jajaabor’ label presented “The Artful Lodger” that made a stirring impact on the Gen Next ramp as she unveiled ensembles in Khadi, cotton, Chanderi silk and silk organza. The inspirations were the various homestay stories around the world. To highlight her fabric selection, Kanika brought in reactive prints with embroidery and the result was a ‘white and shades of blue’ along with red and pink fantasy that was practical but eye-catching. The deep blue, zippered, jacket with clusters of embroidered flowers, running stitch and quirky street names like “W 30th Street” or “Waverly Street” was a fun outfit. Also eye-catching was the architectural prints of row houses in blue on white for the long-sleeved dress, while floppy cropped jackets and flared skirts had a trendy appeal. Stripes and dots appeared for asymmetric dress, while a sari with a soft coat, floral embroidered mini, a soft biker and the imposing red poncho cape with a striped sari were great wardrobe additions.
For the fashion trendsetter who looks for some whimsical prints and embellishments, “The Artful Lodger” collection from the ‘Jajaabor’ label by Kanika Sachdev offered a free-wheeling design initiative.
Shweta Gupta – Textured for Perfection
Shweta Gupta ensured that after graduating from the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar she worked with the best in the fashion industry. So, her years with Tarun Tahiliani, Gaurav Gupta and Varun Bahl gave her the knowledge and confidence to launch her label ‘SWGT’.
Aiming to cater to the Winter/Festive 2018 season, Shweta’s fabric choice had to be handloom Chanderi in yarn dyed cotton silk and of course Merino Wool. The inspiration was rather unconventional pertaining to age old rocks as well as nomadic travellers. So the weaves revealed a marked influence of landscapes and textures that were created with various yarns, smocking and fabric hand manipulation.
The earthy, colour card of grey, mud, slate, silt, beige and brown was the basis for the striped fitted trousers, concealed placket shirt and striped cape. The heavily smocked bodice of the long-sleeved, striped, dress was further highlighted with rows of smocking on sleeves and skirt. Slim pants with angular kurta and shawl shrug, the hoodie style shawl, draped collar for an asymmetric maxi and the empire line, pleated, flared, maxi revealed intense detailing of the extreme kind.
For lovers of earthy fashion with some extreme detailing ‘SWGT’ by Shweta Gupta will score high on the fashion charts.
Yadvi Agarwal – Fashionably Exclusive
When art meets fashion, the result is an arresting visual presentation on the ramp. Yadvi Agarwal’s ‘YAVI’ label was a celebration of colours, textures and styles as they were exclusive pieces created according to the needs of the buyers.
Having acquired a Masters in Textile Design from the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad and a Bachelors’ from Pearl Academy of Fashion, Delhi, Yadvi added to her CV the post of Head Designer at SPUN by Welspun Global Brands Ltd and also gained valuable experience by working with EKA and Pero.
The impressionism style and the city of Paris inspired Yadvi’s ‘YAVI’ label, so her innovative use of indigenous traditional textiles was amply visible. Hand painting was the focal point of the collection that heightened its appeal. The textured, woven, patched, mini with multi-hand painting had an unusual appeal, while the shirt with an abstract splash of prints highlighted with a pocket and collar as the focal points, was a stylish offering. Pleated skirt with matching bell-sleeved blouse, soft jackets over sari with asymmetric blouse, slim skirt with tie-up top, cropped pants, waistcoat over shirt and sari were a variety of choices for the wearer.
For the buyer who desires exclusive pieces in her wardrobe, Yadvi Agarwal’s ‘YAVI’ label will be the perfect option.