Payal Khandwala’s collection is an ode to the non-conformist woman

Payal Khandwala’s description of her new Spring Summer collection 2017 sounds like an introductory class on women’s studies: “The motif which is a cluster of roses is central to the entire line and is a 
reference to the dichotomy of feminity and strength.” But, that’s probably the Parson School of Design graduate in her talking. The 43-year-old Mumbai designer, whose name has become synonymous with straight silhouettes and clean cuts has created collections over the last five years that describe her patrons – elegant yet and full of vigour. Titled Back to Basics, look out for a range of wardrobe essentials like slouchy tops, slim slit jackets, drop shoulder ponchos, shirt dresses, pleated skirts and culottes.

Artist’s perspective

While the designer’s signature palette of rich jewel tones makes an appearance as shades of coffee, crimson, citrine, indigo and leaf green, the monochrome makes a debut in the label’s collection. Drawing parallels with her background in art, Payal Khandwala says that she looks to create works of art that reflect style rather than cyclical fashion trends. “I approach my collections just like I would with one of my paintings. Once you decide on what your subject is, the next thing to do is creating your interpretation of the subject and then you factor in how you would like to frame it. The same goes for apparel,” shares the designer who has previously showcased her artwork at galleries in New York, London, and Barcelona. 
Keeping surface detailing to a minimum, the collection is tied together with floral motifs that are a mixture of screen and digital prints. “The illustration is devoid of any pigment and patterns pattern were drafted free hand on paper before it was digitised.” she shares.

All the right angles

A reflection of her love for geometry and proportion, the collection includes a range of seamless garments. “There can be two approaches to garment construction — one is the tailored, structured fit and the other is creating apparel through drapes. The latter excites me. For instance, you could take a circular piece of fabric and slit it, and sometimes it turns into something beautiful,” Payal says, adding, “Draped silhouettes are inclusive of an entire spectrum of body types.” Back to Basics, which has 24 looks in linen, cotton and light silk can also be paired with other wardrobe staples like distressed jeans, a tank top or a pair of pants to create ensembles for both casual and formal meetings.

Rs 7,200 onwards. Available at Amethyst. Details: 45991630