Over the last few fashion weeks, designers have attempted at defying conventional runway stereotypes. While the popularity of sustainable clothing at Lakmé Fashion Week continues to underline the growing importance of handloom textiles, veteran designer Wendell Rodricks was quick to spotlight another mould that needed to be broken. Showcasing an entire line of plus-sized clothing, India’s first transgender plus-sized model Varonica Campabell opened Wendell Rodricks’ show on Day four of the Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017 edition.
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Conceptualised and designed by Rodricks’ successor and his label’s new creative director, Schulen Fernandes, the collection is the country’s first ever plus-sized line to be showcased on the runway. Consisting of 21 looks, PRIMERO, which created quite the buzz ahead of fashion week, saw as many as 300 participants vying for a spot to walk the ramp during the modelling auditions earlier in June.
Fluid dynamics
While the label’s last collection, The Cubist Rose, drew from the designer’s philosophy of using geometry as inspiration and translated as jacket dresses and structured angular fits, the aLL PRIMERO collection is more fluid with its silhouettes. Featuring layered tunics, asymmetric gowns, swinging dresses, capes and kaftans, the designer explains that the line was aimed at challenging the outlook towards anti-fit silhouettes. “Plus-size women usually tend to opt for baggy clothes that end up looking frumpy. Anti-fit silhouettes give a structure to the body without looking oversized and ill-fitted.”
Colour coding
Dark shades and blacks for once weren't the hues in charge of the plus-sized collection. Breaking sartorial status quo, the line featured vibrant hues of burgundy, teal, mauve, light greens and the designer’s signature colour, white. “Vibrant colours are seen as a big no-no for plus-size people. We decided it was time to bust these myths by introducing a wide range of whites, neutrals and lively hues.”
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Cut it fine
With a focus on keeping things light-hearted and young, the menswear line featured bhandis and tunics with contrast stitch detail, foil prints, crush pleats and stripes on a range of fabrics like moss crêpe, lycra, cotton, satin, jacquard and polyester georgette. Even as the collection is set to take up rack space at aLL - The Plus Size stores across the country by October, the designer’s focus is already on his pet project— the Moda Goa Museum. Expected to open by the end of 2018, the project will display preserved artefacts like garments, embroidery, jewellery that narrate the evolution of Goan fashion.
In aLL- The Plus Size Store from October. RS Puram. Details: 2548617
— Rebecca Vargese
rebecca@newindianexpress.com
@rebecca_vargese