Oh my gosht! Age-old meat recipes at The Great Kabab Factory

Tuck into age-old secret recipes and innovative takes on classic dishes at The Great Kabab Factory.
The Great Kabab Factory
The Great Kabab Factory

A meal at The Great Kabab Factory (TGKF), the in-house Indian diner at Radisson Blu Egmore, guarantees one of those booming belches befitting a royal, overgenerous spread.

In this particular case, on a visit timed to the ongoing Lost Recipes of India pro-motion, we couldn’t help note the smoky aftertaste of the Dhunwari Kali Dal (Smoked Black Dal) in our breath — in a good way, that is. Richly spiced, the lentils are cooked and served in a “sakora”, or closed earthen pot, and the taste lingers long after you’re done with lunch.

Native utensils such as the oversized “mahi tawa” and pans of (“tambe”) brass and (“peetal”) copper are crucial to the process in Chef Haleem’s kitchen. That is the reason his dishes don’t quite taste the same as you’d find in other hotels, enthuses the chef. His Lagan Ki Biryani, for instance, is distinctive and can’t easily be replicated — the recipes apart, it’s the utensils that make the difference, he insists.

<em>Dhunwari Kali Dal</em>
Dhunwari Kali Dal

As for our table manners, we let the knives and forks rest and dug right in with our fingers, chomping our way through platefuls of kababs — indulgent galautis of buttery consistency, stout katambaris, Keri Paneer and Kathal Achari Tikka (jackfruit).

The highlight was the uncommon Dal Bharwan Dori Karela, a preparation of bitter gourd stuffed with cooked lentils — piquant with barely a bitter hint.

A selection of homegrown breads added to the novel fare — Mandua rotis (wheat flour; a staple in north India), saffron-infused traditional Shirmal flatbreads, and Bakarkhani fermented buns stuffed with dried fruit. The breads are not on the Lost Recipes menu, but can be ordered by request.

The elaborate meal on offer is yet considerable, including kabab platters for starters, up to seven main course dishes, as well as desserts — all for a very affordable price.

<em>Galautis at The Great Kabab Factory</em>
Galautis at The Great Kabab Factory

Our main course featured the Ambia Cholia Masala Pulao (loaded with green peas), with helpings of the Bhagari Baingan (eggplant curry) and Dal Be Aab (a Kashmiri preparation of lentils without water) — none of which was too spicy.

The highlight was the Gosht Semiya Biryani, with sprinkled vermicelli lending some crunch to each spoonful; inventive, but not one for purists. The Sakora Gosht, meanwhile, of meat so tender it might as well be made of more butter, is worth going back for by itself.

We wrapped things up with portions of halwa and gulab ki kheer for dessert — both notably low on oil. Ultimately, while TGKF’s food easily ranks among the best in Chennai, the kababs, we’re glad to report, are on par with the best in the country.

The Lost Recipes of India promotion is on until August 22. Prices start at `1,100. Details: 30404486

— Jaideep Sen 
 jaideep@newindianexpress.com
 @senstays

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