Standing the test of time and taste, the Golden Dragon at the Taj Coromandel enjoys a wild following in the city. Known for understated opulence and an elegant dining experience, we soon find that these elements extend to their new menu as well. Our visit to the restaurant last week saw us trying out a degustation menu. While they have stayed loyal to Cantonese and Sichuan cuisines, Executive Chef Sujan Mukherjee assures us that some favourites like the Kung Pao Chicken and Lotus Stem Honey Chilli among others, have been retained in the menu, that starting today boasts 20-odd new additions.
Coming to new ingredients, the white asparagus in garlic sauce made a big impression closely followed by the inclusion of taro in some dishes. It is easy to succumb to the taro dumplings that are delicately crunchy and dissolve in the mouth with the creamy filling of chicken and water chestnuts. The crab meat dumplings were subtle in seasoning ensuring the seafood could shine, while the translucent spinach and garlic ones were the prettiest. Surprisingly we find ourselves gorging on steamed tofu next – only to be told that these were silken tofu bites – hence smooth, wobbly and delicious. Chef Sujan shares how the new menu is a collective exercise, “Favourites from our other Golden Dragon restaurants in the country, some elements from Chef Ho’s (a Hong Kong national) travels and numerous rounds of tasting with the team and with some regulars.” The spicy peanut butter soup was an instant hit with me, even as it reminded of Malaysian flavours. The steamed fish in chilli mustard sauce vied with the succulent stir fried lamb with ginger and kalian — and yes, the fish was the winner.
While the chef agreed that the flavours were predominantly traditional, we did find a shift when it came to the dessert section which comprised a Jasmine Tea Cheese Cake and a scoop of litchi basil seed ice-cream. The cheese cake was brightened up with some caramelised pineapple and the ice-cream ended our meal on a perfect sweet note.
Meal for two at Rs 4,000