Nursing a double-shot of Kopi Luwak at Chef’s Table in Poes Garden, I am easily convinced by Madhulika Sundaram to not dwell on the processes that this Indonesian coffee has gone through. Just back from Bali, the Cordon Bleu chef tells me that she has brought enough beans to make nearly 200 cups — and she also lets on that a discerning civet cat had picked those berries, ingested them and then defecated them!
I deadpan it and declare it to be surprisingly smooth with sweet undertones. After that dark caffeine fix I am all geared to dig into the delicious bacon bread that has a quiche filling on the top. Whiffs of freshly baked bread come wafting from the kitchen, even as Madhulika tells me that though she had decided to do a café fare — a paradigm shift from the nearly fine dining menu that she was running here since early last year — the Bali trip reminded her about all the things that truly matter to her in her kitchen. Eating organic for the past two years, the 29-year-old who was part of the team that started the Brew Room, says, “I realised I couldn’t do the store bought Tabasco routine — I had to make my own in-house ketchup and my own jujube jam!” That was no metaphor — the tomato sauce is spicy and thick, while the jujube preserve is tangy and sweet here. “Yes, you can buy jars of preserve – like marmalade and strawberry jam.”
The new menu offers a choice of lactose-free, gluten-free, sugar-free and vegetarian dishes, barring the meats and cheeses, most of the ingredients are organic. Next I try a shot of healthy looking blend of spinach, green apple, fennel seeds and all things good. The juice reminds me of a recently mowed lawn — in a nice way — bright green, with that fresh fragrance!
Offering an eclectic range of sour dough breads, the mildly spiced, deep magenta beetroot bread is already a hit. Their French toast uses brioche, the pain aux raisins is a glazed roll with a moist centre, while the buckwheat pancakes with organic maple syrup can easily go from brekky item to dessert. “I am putting together a ‘Breakfast on the Go’ option — that will have a smoothie bowl topped with fresh fruits, seeds and nuts, and a coffee,” and she adds that one could choose from yoghurt or soya, almond and coconut milk for the smoothie.
While the dishes cannot be customised at this café, the original idea for Chef’s Table was a private dining experience, with Madhulika dishing up a menu designed to your preferences. “That option is still there," she says as she walks me to the secluded dining area that can seat up to eight only and where the kitchen counter is, teppanyaki style — though do note you need to book it four days in advance. Meanwhile, Madhulika has retained some favourites from her last menu — like the beetroot ravioli and the tofu with udon noodles, and is currently working on creating an almond and cacao bean tart with palm sugar.
Open from 9 am to 8pm. Meal for two at about Rs 1,600 ++.