The impact of Portuguese colonisers who landed on our state’s shores in the 15th Century is still felt today. They didn’t just depart after plundering our resources but influenced what we ate—at the off-chance that someone from Portugal is reading this, obrigado for introducing us to pork vindaloo and feni though—and their language has definitely seeped into ours.
I discuss such linguistic intricacies, alongside the co-owners of Cusiny, over a steaming pile of ‘continental’ momos dunked in a heady mixture of cream cheese, parmesan, and housemade chilly-mayo. “The word ‘cozinha’ probably influenced the term ‘kushinikaran’ meaning ‘man in the kitchen’,” explains Antony Kattakayam, when asked about the story behind this Masjid Road-based outlet’s name.
Cruise control
Antony, a 32-year-old who previously managed Lulu mall’s KFC outlet, and Martin Thomas, a 31-year-old ex-chef de partie who worked with the Royal Caribbean cruise line brand, have done their market research thoroughly. Despite a complete lack of ambience, primarily due to its busy streetside location, this 20-cover diner is packed post sunset. That’s because they’re serving common dishes done uncommonly well, in a locale that doesn’t have many late-night eateries.
Cusiny’s charcoal-grilled chicken is easily the best we’ve had in recent times thanks to its mix of sweet orange rind, Kashmiri chilly, burnt meat bits—a near-perfect triumvirate of flavours. However, their run-of-the-mill options like BBQ wings and sub-par rice bowls smothered in oriental flavours, may not sate
everyone’s appetite. But whatever you do, don’t leave without trying their excellent beef seekh kebabs (a labour-intensive dish rarely found in Kochi’s dining circuit) or their signature thirst-quencher, a nutmeg mocktail.
anoop.p@newindianexpress.com
@godsonlymistake