Malvani Kombadi Vade
Malvani Kombadi Vade

Taste the Konkan region’s best-kept culinary secrets at Kochi’s Holiday Inn

Spicy tawa-fried calamari, anyone?

A griddle scraper full of shrimp sizzles on a flat top grill, as executive chef Jitendra Nakhwa and I engage in a heated discussion. What started out as a simple conversation about the similarities between Kerala and Konkan fare, took a hard right when the phrase ‘origin of Sambar’ is uttered. 

The debate—which began mid-way through the preparation of a West coastal staple, Kolambi Bhaat aka prawn masala rice—almost made me forget that I was invited to this five-star establishment to sample a few lesser known dishes from India’s western shoreline. The 35-year-old chef, who traces his roots back to the Konkan coast which ranges from Raigad to Mangalore, claims that Sambar was invented in the royal kitchens belonging to King Shivaji’s son, Sambhaji.

Spice route

However, the exchange met an abrupt end when an aromatic waft of dried coconut, red chilli, and ginger-garlic put my olfactory senses on overdrive. I’d suggest that anyone new to the cuisine try the rare delicacies like Andyacha Kalwan (poached egg curry), fluffy five-flour Vade (the Puri’s pretty cousin), and Kombadi Rassa (fiery chicken curry). “Connoisseurs prefer to drink something citrusy to cleanse their palate between servings, as this region’s cuisine is traditionally seafood-oriented and leans heavily on masalas/spices including cloves, cinnamon, and dried kokum,” explains Jitendra. 

The young chef’s take on tawa-fried calamari is so good that it triggers my gustatory memories of chilling out on Kudle Beach, comme la Ratatouille. If you intend to end your dinner on a sweet note, opt for a thick Ratnagiri Mango Shrikhand (consumed with Puri) or try the coconut/jaggery-filled Modak. I’m still not convinced that Sambar originated in Maharashtra, nevertheless, don’t let that chatter ruin your chance to sample this must-try cuisine.

Taste of the Konkan fest ends on May 27.
 

Related Stories

No stories found.
Indulgexpress
www.indulgexpress.com