Atreyee Poddar
Zakaria Street during Ramadan is loud, smoky, crowded and chaotic. Smoke curls into the night air, skewers hiss like they’re gossiping, and everyone is waiting for that first bite after sundown. If you’re walking in hungry, you’re doing it right.
The moment the fast breaks, the grills go into overdrive. Plates fly out, conversations get louder and strangers share tables. Smoke sticks to your clothes but you won’t even mind. Pro tip: go before iftar to watch the build-up, but eat right after. The kebabs are freshest, the energy is electric, and for a few hours, this narrow Kolkata lane feels like the centre of the universe. Here’s your hit list.
This is the one people argue about. Minced meat wrapped tight with thread so it holds shape on the grill, slow-cooked over charcoal until smoky, juicy, borderline indecent. The thread comes off before serving, obviously. What you’re left with is a kebab that tastes like patience and fire. Eat it hot. No photoshoot, no delay.
Offal is not for the timid. Kidney (khiri) and liver (kaleji) grilled fast and furious, spiced hard, finished with a squeeze of lime. Metallic, rich, unapologetic. This is old-school Ramadan eating — protein-dense, deeply satisfying, and gone in three bites. If you think you don’t like organ meat, this stall might change your mind.
After all that spice and smoke, malai boti is the soft-spoken diplomat. Cream, mild heat, tender chicken that practically folds under your teeth. It’s the kebab you recommend to the friend who claims “I can’t handle spicy food” and then ends up ordering seconds.
Sufia is where you sit down for a minute and let the chaos swirl around you. Their mutton kebabs are robust, spice-forward, and deeply Mughlai. Pair it with haleem during Ramadan and you’ve basically signed up for a food coma.
Dilli 6 leans into creamy Afghani marinades and heavier spice blends that is slightly different from the classic Kolkata profile. It’s for when you don't want to rush but sit and savour each bite.