Celebrated couturier JJ Valaya, among a handful of names who have given shape to the Indian fashion industry, has had an adventurous ride these past two years — from collaborating with Oscar-winning costume designer Ruth E Carter for the Eddie Murphy film Coming 2 America to taking to the online medium through virtual shows and launching his e-store. Valaya, who took a sabbatical from 2017 to 2019, is no stranger to reinvention and adapting to change.
The designer recently announced the launch of his bridge-to-luxury line JJV which will feature modern and experimental silhouettes made from Tencel Luxe filament yarn. He also just unveiled his Spring Summer 2022 couture collection, Rumeli - A Summer Saga. Rumelia, a region in the Balkans which was conquered by the Ottoman Empire, has a rich and colourful history. It covers parts of present day Serbia, Greece, Bulgaria, Macedonia, European Turkey and Albania. It is from the art and craft of this region that Valaya takes inspiration for the collection — a summer-appropriate extension of his Fall ’21 drop of the same name. Known for his affinity for the culture and history attached to the silk and spice routes and his idea of what he calls ‘the royal nomad’, Rumeli comprises garments crafted from a combination of dupion, georgette, organza silks and silk blends. Valaya, who completes three decades in the industry this year, talks to us about his current work, his flagship store which is set to open at Delhi’s Aerocity, the changes he has seen in the last 30 years and his thoughts on the brides of today.
Tell us a little bit more about Rumeli - A Summer Saga.
This is our third collection inspired by Ottoman culture after Azrak and Bursa. It is a continuation of our Fall Festive collection. I was interested in how the Ottomans spread their empire across the world. So we have used motifs, colours and patterns that are inspired by that era. We have worked primarily with silks and silk blends. The embellishments have been created with antiquated metal, sequins, beads, metallic threads, flat-beaten metal sheets, silk threads, crystals and more.
Is there anything you have done differently in this collection?
With luxury brands, the game is more about evolving than doing things differently. Otherwise you’re just running the rat race, where you are pressurised into producing for the sake of it. We have evolved through the past three decades. And I’m as excited as I was in the beginning about my work. In 2017, when I took a sabbatical, it was because it no longer excited me. The industry was becoming boring. Everyone was doing the same thing. I remember going to a show of another designer and I could see from where I was sitting that there was no attention given to the finishing and there were threads dangling from the garments. It all got a little too much. I had to realign my outlook, regroup and then start again.
In what ways have you evolved in the past 30 years?
Fashion is a visual medium. We are constantly evolving, creating new techniques, our prints are becoming stronger and we’re always looking at ways to innovate.
How has the industry grown since you started out? Do you like what you see?
When I got into fashion, there were maybe four or five designers in the whole country. There were no fashion weeks, newspapers and magazines were not writing about fashion, there were barely any customers and virtually no retail spaces for designer wear. Clearly, there’s a huge change from then to now, it’s overwhelming.
What do you think still needs to change in the Indian fashion industry?
What needs a makeover is the pride for our craft and heritage. We have no shortage of talent, but I think we’ve got a bit of a ‘gora’ hangover. You don’t see Gucci and Chanel making saris and lehengas. These are brands that honour their heritage and where they come from. In India, yes, we make beautiful clothes, but they’re not Indian garments. I wish more youngsters would focus on clothes that are more relevant to India.
Tell us about your new flagship store.
It’s a dream come true. It is going to be a gamechanger. It was supposed to open in early 2020 but because of the pandemic we had to put it off.
What can we expect from your new label, JJV?
It is completely different, yet maintains the ethos of the JJ Valaya brand. I wanted to create a line that would be occasion wear for travel. But of course, it doesn’t mean that you can only wear it when you’re travelling. I was very clear on one aspect. I wanted everyone to wear my clothes, not just brides and grooms. So I decided we need to do a line that was simpler, easier, elegant, yet kind of celebratory so this line is lighter, and has a variety of silhouettes, from saris and skirt sets to kaftans, maxi dresses, tunics, shirts and jackets. The clothes work well for impromptu soirée, fancy dinners at famous restaurants, or even opera performance and other occasions when you are required to dress up while travelling.
What can you say about the brides of today?
I think brides of today want to be modern but also know at the same time there should be some element of tradition. I find them to be very confident and they are not afraid to flaunt their true personality.