In the next few years Delhi-based label GRAINE may just be the most sought-after name, considering the incredible start it got in the industry. The label which has been co-founded by Harshna Kandhari and Mannat Sethi is already designing for the best (re: Diana Penty’s gota-work dress at Cannes). GRAINE will also be featured in the upcoming Lakme Fashion Week and is making way for the new-age ‘luxe leisure’ aesthetic. We catch up with the two minds behind it to understand the label better:
Tell us how GRAINE was conceived
GRAINE is the intangible spirit that gives each one of us form and character. On one hand is responsibility - like focusing on re-purposing discarded rubber tyres, while on the other, transforming traditional crafts into contemporary motifs, composed in structured silhouettes, distinct forms and playful artworks, lay the foundation of the GRAINE philosophy.
Tell us about the line-up you’re planning for Lakmé Fashion Week
At Lakmé Fashion Week SR20, GRAINE threads around its fondness for an Indian barfi - A millennials’ take on the traditional barfi, defined by distinct form and texture. Drawing inspiration from this our design direction follows reflection, layering, form, linear play, grain, absorb, distortion, appliqué. Fabrics like linen, twill, sheer organza will create an interplay of texture on the runway.
The concept of responsibility is embodied with the use of re-purposed rubber tyres that are meticulously cut and embroidered by zari artisans. The bakhiya stitch and mukaish tilla wires are conceptualised in contemporary motifs and modern translations. Our embroideries marry our fabric in play, composed in silhouettes that define the GRAINE woman as “consciously eclectic”.
Graine’s approach adds an edge to how we see occasion wear. Can you tell us a little about that?
We like to describe it as luxe leisure. People are drifting away from burdened clothing with restricted purpose and moving to functional repetition. It’s occasion wear yet fitting in your GRAINE portrait. In today’s world everything comes across as a disclaimer. We want our clothes to come across as a polite introduction of one’s individual personality, their strength being defined by their choice of lifestyle moving from a domestic environment to the busy cubicles of work to a social lovable gathering in the evening.
A styling trend which you think will go big in 2020?
Layering dresses with sheer organza trousers to switch from day to evening and work to leisure. 2020 is for luxe leisure.
Where do you think ethically conscious fashion stands in the country right now?
Immense awareness has been created with regards to ethical consciousness in fashion and the industry peers and younger generation alike have come together in attributing importance to it. New designers like us even at an initial stage include strong sense of responsibility in our business frameworks for social, productive as well economic viability.
It is hard to say that at such early stages businesses are 100% sustainable but each effort contributes and with constant research and craft implementation we are in our own ways contributing to the purpose and making each step count.