WHILE ‘Indo-Western’ might be a go-to classification for a lot of clothes that currently reign in the market, Kolkata-based designer Harsh Amber implements the notion to a line of tees, in his latest collection, Ulgulan. Made with handspun and handwoven khadi denim and tussar silk, the collection combines tribal art with geometrical shapes and patterns, to make casual party wear for both men and women.
The range, inspired by the historic tribal revolt led by Birsa Munda against the British in 1895, includes shirts, jackets, trouser-skirts, and dresses, in solid whites and off-whites, with asymmetrical cuts, tribal prints and minimal embellishments. Instead of playing with drapes, Harsh Amber’s clothes add layers to Western silhouettes, with pleats and patterns, while including a variety of jackets for both men and women.
“I chose white as the colour this time, as my first collection, Blacksoul, was in dark shades, and people wanted a change. White and tussar look good, both in daylight as well as at night,” says the designer, who specialised in creative pattern making during his college days at NIFT.
“I always like to work with a story that has some connection with the past, but has a perspective that is relevant today,” explains Harsh, whose collection, Blacksoul, was inspired by the Indian Armed Forces. “With the Black Soul collection, I wanted to convey how each of us is a soldier, fighting something or the other in our inner life,” he offers.
His graduation collection, based on Harivansh Rai Bachchan’s poetic epic, Madhushala, was awarded as the Best Design Collection and the Most Creative and Innovative Collection at NIFT. “Ulgulan is about Birsa Munda’s revolt against the British, which spearheaded a revolution for all the fundamental rights that we enjoy as individuals today,” says Harsh.
We were quite impressed by the fine denim khadi wrap shirt, with three panels. While one side had tribal prints, which could be buttoned down, there was a third overlapping panel, resembling parts of traditional tribal clothing, which could be tied with chords, to give a traditional but new look.
Similarly, for women, there is a sleeveless jacket dress in the same fabric. It has an added panel in the front, with an accompanying printed pattern pleat and asymmetric panels, from the waist downwards.
There are some smart casuals for summer too, like an asymmetrical crop top in breathable khadi, with asymmetrical, knee-length skirt trousers, which lends the impression of being a skirt, with a front panel. Another dressy number is a cut-edge dress in khadi denim, with box pleats in tussar silk, which looks elegant and flamboyant at the same time.
In menswear, a simple tussar shirt, with blind tucks on the collar and cuffs, makes for good party wear, while an accompanying bomber jacket in khadi denim gives it a smart casual look. The 25-year-old designer believes that fashion should always attempt something new, which is not in the market. “People should also learn to experiment with what they are wearing, and have the confidence to carry it off,” says Harsh, who admires the designs of Yohji Yamamoto and Narendra Kumar.
Starting price for Harsh Amber’s new collection is Rs 4,500.