With his Winter/Festive 2019 collection Angoori, it would seem as if designer Sanjay Garg is revisiting the idea that led to the creation of his brand Raw Mango. Named after his New Delhi store Angoori Baadi (translating to Garden of Grapes), the collection (like his storefront) offers a peek into the workings of the designer who has engaged with the Chanderi and Benarsi weave for over a decade now.
Greatest hits
Comprising of the brand’s classic motifs, at first glance, Angoori seems to bear a striking similarity with the earlier design interventions that were carried out by Raw Mango in Chanderi in 2008 — floral designs alongside traditional patterns like ashrafi and sikka booti, paisley patterns and more. But on closer inspection, one comes to realise the collection’s unique identity comes in the form of single elements that contemporise each individual garment — sometimes in the form of a fabric, sometimes in the form of a hue and other times as reconstructed components in the border or the pallu.
“There is no particular way to ‘contemporise’ motifs. We have always tried to engage with the visual vocabulary of India through measured interventions within traditional practices. It can also be done by revisiting an earlier process of and re-engineering garment patterns,” offers Sanjay talking about the collection.
Hues of all kinds
While the brand has been credited with introducing a newer palette of colour like forest green, lime yellow, midnight blue and gulabi pink in Chanderi, the collection goes beyond and extends its centre stage to pastel shades of pistachio, pale blue and even grey. “The challenge was to explore ways in which the motifs and colours of the Chanderi saris could still make sense in today’s day and age.” Expect to find knee-length brocade jackets, silk kurtas, embroidered salwars and odhanis, lightweight saris and more — woven in Varanasi and Chanderi.
Value additions
While the designer’s pick from the collection is a striped organza silk sari, Sanjay suggests building festive ensembles around any of the collection’s unstitched drapes. “A cotton sari can be equally as festive as a Benarasi, it’s how one wears it.”Perhaps a crop top or a brocade blouse to dress the drape up or a solid jewel-coloured blouse for a more formal occasion.
Rs 4,500 onwards. At Amethyst. On November 22 and 23. From 11 am to 7.30 pm
rebecca@newindianexpress.com
@rebecca_vargese