Few things have changed the form and presentation - with the exception of scale and level of organisation - of fashion shows since World War II. It took a monumental happening of global proportions for fashion houses to shift from small, intimate showcases and open their doors to a larger audience, thereby creating the modern fashion show.
The year 2020 and the global pandemic that has followed, has, now once again, upset this fine balance and the corresponding results have been all too visible. Entire fashion weeks have gone digital and runway shows are being replaced by fashion films.
It is within the context of this upheaval that designer Narresh Kukreja - one half of the dynamic designer duo Shivan & Narresh - tells us that fashion illustrations are set to make a come back.
We got chatting with the designer, who is part of Airbnb's At Home experience, about their online fashion illustrations sessions, their creative process, and we even managed to get some exclusive deets about their upcoming collection!
Your thoughts on why fashion illustration matters in the digital age.
I think illustrations are a whole lot more relevant in the digital era. With the convenience that the internet offers, you tend to go online and look for a particular print or a particular shirt and follow the silhouette — that way you’re recreating something that was already thought of. Putting down your thoughts on paper is the most effective tool to convey an original idea. There is so much actual creativity when you aren't following a mood board that you saw on Pintrest.
Do you think illustrations may make a comeback in fashion editorials with photoshoots becoming increasingly difficult in the current circumstances?
I think fashion is going back to the classics. When the industry is increasingly going digital, there is a great sense of comfort when you go back to something that you know and are familiar with. Illustration extends a sense of tactility that is lost in the digital format.
This hark back to the way things were done is something that we are currently seeing. Consider Gucci's latest collection. It was released on an all-digital platform in the form of a short film. But it featured small-scale versions of Grecian gowns and dresses that was inspired by the Théâtre de la Mode. The wandering exhibition that was created to promote Parisian couture among customers during the Second World War showcased design possibilities on miniature mannequins, and that is what we have seen with Gucci. In the current context, I do think illustrations will surely make a comeback.
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Who is your favourite illustrator?
Laura Laine
If you had to pick one favourite illustration from your repertoire, what would it be?
It would have to be from the first Shivan & Narresh series called Insectoid. It was inspired from a trip to the Milan Natural History Museum — particularly the section reserved for insects. It influenced the silhouette, design and the mood of the Insectoid series, which eventually were realised into our first fashion collection showcased in Cannes, France in 2008. We have the illustrations framed in our office.
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Run us through the highlights of your Airbnb session
We will be focusing on creating illustrations for three major categories - swimwear, resort wear and evening wear. While illustrating each of the following categories, one will learn the nuances of how a fabric falls on different curves of the body, how to illustrate hemlines, ruffles, gathers, pleats etc. Then we will touch upon colour and stylisation of your illustration, followed by how you render your illustration is also an important tool in communicating the outfit for its texture, lightness or density.
You complete 10 years in the industry, give us a sneak peek into your upcoming collection.
For this collection, we have been greatly inspired by human anatomy. The pandemic has spotlighted how beautiful and intricate, yet fragile the human body is. We have five signature prints that are inspired by it. In terms of silhouettes, our focus is on easy-to-wear fits, so loungewear is the overriding theme. We have taken a leap of faith and are naming the collection The Wilding '20s. It is a tribute to the roaring '20s - it captures the feeling of celebration. But celebration in smaller, more intimate groups, of course! (laughs)
Shivan & Narresh will be hosting a Fashion Illustration session for At Home with Airbnb on July 12. Rs 2,200. 4 to 5 pm.