With a lineage extending back to the royal houses of Rajasthan, the jewellery brand Bhuramal Rajmal Surana Johuree, promises heritage designs but with a touch of modernity. Known for its jadau, polki and Mughal styles of jewellery, the brand, with stores in Bengaluru, Kolkata and Jaipur, has been the go-to for Indian brides for decades. Now, with their new collection, titled Liked By All, they are borrowing from a wearable and versatile aesthetic, that is suited for not just weddings.
Gold standard
“Our customers have a fondness for traditional and heritage designs. But of late, they also appreciate lighter pieces. This inspired and initiated our efforts to create jewels with the same finesse and articulation, but for more routine wear. The collection is wearable and practical,” says Chandra, about the new collection.
Expect earrings, especially in chandbali and karanphool jhumka styles, bangles such kadas and patlas, and exquisite necklaces such as chokers, haars and satlaras. The collection also has some heavier bridal wear and a few pieces of men’s jewellery. It is made through the jadau technique. Chandra adds that, “Though jadau has been the choice of modern brides and royal families, it’s magnificence restricted it to weddings. With this collection, you can wear jadau as evening wear or for festivals, as well as formal occasions.” While the jadau technique traditionally used to be made only with 22 or 23 carat gold, nowadays due to innovative designs, and the rising price of gold, a combination of 18 carat and 24 carat gold is used in this collection.
Set in stone
The collection has precious and semi-precious stones such as diamonds, emeralds, rubies, pearls, sapphires and tourmaline. Some pieces have beautiful meenakari enameling. For men, we spotted sherwani buttons with meenakari work and kilangi sarpech (turban brooches). Each piece is the result of collaboration between the chitera (designer), the sonar (goldsmith), the minakar (engraver), the jadia (setter) and the patua (stringer). Chandra signs off by saying that the collection is aimed at connoisseurs of fine jewellery who like quality and love to wear traditional pieces with a modern edge.
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