The Pujas this year is surely different for designer Parama Ghosh — she has done a beautiful collaborative project with the weavers of Bengal. Parama has worked with five major weaving clusters of Bengal that were badly affected due to the pandemic and the rise of the power loom — namely tant, shantipuri, begumpuri, jamdani and gawrod. And the results are breathtaking.
The free-flowing tant drapes have unusual combinations in striking bold colours with satin borders woven on them. The shantipuri saris have handwoven poetry on the borders and have borrowed the quintessential line from Raygunakar Bharatchandra’s poem Annapurna O Ishwari Patani — Amar Santan Jeno Thaakey Dudhey Bhaatey (may the children always remain well-fed). The most special sari from this collection is the Sarbajaya, named after one of the most powerful characters from Bibhutibhushan Bandyopadhyay’s novel Pather Panchali, later immortalised in Satyajit Ray’s Apu Trilogy. The jamdani weaves have floral motifs and earring patterns from Narayanganj, Bangladesh.
“We have also woven a part of Ma Durga’s Sholar Mukut on vermilion handwoven cotton. These jamdanis are timeless,” says Parama. The traditional begumpuri saris have been given an edge with hand block printing and the gawrod saris are woven in unorthodox colours like orange, turquoise, hot pink and violet. Named Karuna, the capsule edit of anti-fit blouses too is easy-breezy and can be teamed up with saris, skirts and trousers. She has used soft handwoven jamdani for all the blouses that come in colours like red, white, black and mint greens.
“The star blouse of this series is named after Karuna Bandopadhyay, who immortalised Sarbajaya on screen. The other blouses include mini kaftan blouses and sleeveless ones with flaps that fall over your shoulders, among others. This is the first time we have done a sleeveless blouse; and we named it Bhictoria’s Secret. We have also recreated our bestselling Charulata blouse in black with lace details,” she adds.
Tell us about the festive trends?
I am quite oblivious to trends and believe in individualised styling. Having said that, easy silhouettes, airy fabrics like handwoven jamdani, smart cuts and versatile blouses are trending. The quintessential white sari with red borders is never really out of fashion. Puffed sleeves are a craze now and have been our best sellers.
Which accessories are in fashion this Puja?
I love silvers, big and chunky and flowers. Hibiscuses also make a statement festive accessory.
Fashion faux pas one must avoid during Pujas?
I only feel one has to wear the right shoes during Pujas. Shoe bites can be a major hindrance while pandal hopping.
What are the festive wardrobe essentials?
For me, Puja is synonymous with saris. A quintessential white and red combination in jamdani or tant for ashtami, a gawrod for sindur khela on dashami, easy-breezy muls or chiffons for nabami night and saptami would be my recommendations. Any simple sari jazzed up with the right blouses can be a head-turner. A brocade blouse can be teamed with silks or with a plain monochrome khadi sarees. A white or a black lacey blouse can be paired with saris in multiple colours. A standard solid-red blouse should also be a wardrobe staple.
Some festive tips?
Do wear saris and blouses, but wear your confidence first. I believe that more than the outfits, it is the woman who is wearing them that is more important. Our clothes should never outshine our personality, but rather enhance it. If you ask me, my favourite thing about Puja is watching freshly shampooed long tresses, endless giggles, the smell of new saris and teenagers exchanging glances during ashtami pushpanjali. Nothing can be more festive than that.
Price on request. At her Lake Road store.
sharmishtha.g@newindianexpress.com
Twitter: @sharmidas