From Hyderabad to New Jersey, designer Gaurang Shah is giving Indian weaves a global edge

The designer focussed on indigenous weaves, opening up stores not only in Hyderabad but also in Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bengaluru, and Kolkata.
Gaurang Shah
Gaurang Shah

Textile revivalist Gaurang Shah has been celebrated as one of the designers who brought handloom back in vogue. Ever since he started designing almost a decade ago, he focussed on indigenous weaves, opening up stores not only in Hyderabad, but also in Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bengaluru and Kolkata. However, his work has now transcended national boundaries and has found a burgeoning presence in the United States, as he started retailing at  New Jersey-based boutique, The Mall at Oak Tree. “The journey has been satisfying and deeply absorbing as it helped me, alongside my weavers, to bring into limelight the versatility of Indian textiles and jamdani weaving craft. While the weavers embrace the change and enhance their diversity, it was also an evolution of amalgamating cross-border colours, textures and motifs,” says the designer, who has dressed leading ladies of Bollywood such as Sonam Kapoor, Vidya Balan, Taapsee Pannu, and Dia Mirza.

Keerthy Suresh
Keerthy Suresh

Last year, Gaurang also debuted as the costume designer for T’town blockbuster Mahanati, where he worked with over 100 artisans. Keerthy Suresh, who played Telugu superstar Savitri in the biopic, looked almost ethereal in his handwoven vintage saris. The costumes were so integral for Mahanati’s character that Shah spent more than six months for research. “And that’s what inspired my Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) Winter/Festive 2018 collection, Anupama,” says the designer, who works with over 4,000 karigars operating over 800 looms.

What makes the award-winning designer different from his peers is his ability to seamlessly weave retro-glam in the whole-nine-yards. His fabric innovations like muslin, khadi and chiffons offer a case in point. That’s what  makes him equally sought after in India and abroad. “I was happy when fashion platforms like LFW in India or Berlin Lavera Show, internationally, expressed interest in saris. This led to expanding my label stores in seven cities and then America came calling, where our customer base is rapidly rising,” says the designer, who is also known as the ‘master of weaves’.

The 'Master of Weaves' at LFW
The 'Master of Weaves' at LFW

Gaurang has participated in showcases at London, Dubai and the United States. He cherishes the deep connection he has formed with his weavers. “The gratification comes from being witness to the younger generation from the weaving family returning to continue their family legacy. Today, they feel much more confident about sustainability,” says the designer. Some of his popular weaves that have won over his patrons internationally are khadi, Kanchi and Banarasi variations. “I feel proud when women walk into my stores and ask for saris,” says Gaurang.

The presence of his label in multi-designer shows and frequent visibility at exhibitions also make him more accessible to clients, nationally as well as internationally. At present, Gaurang is working on recreating artist Raja Ravi Varma’s paintings in jamdani weave. The one thing on his wish list though is dressing an international celebrity. “My goal is to make my label more global and become one of the most desirable destinations for jamdani weaves,” concludes Gaurang. Here’s hoping the unstoppable designer achieves his goal soon!

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