What to expect at the new coastal-inspired menu at Grand Chennai by GRT

Expect coastal flavours showcased with creative twists as part of this six-course degustation menu
Mini appams with quail eggs | Pic: R Satish Babu
Mini appams with quail eggs | Pic: R Satish Babu

Following the success of their NH44 menu exploring highway flavours, J Hind at Grand Chennai by GRT hotels rolls out a fresh edition of flavourful plates — this time inspired by India’s western coast. From Kerala’s popular Kakka Erachi (clam) Soup to a Goan-style Fish Recheado — seafood lovers can be assured of plenty to look forward to. The Coast is Calling is not an a la carte festival, but a six-course degustation menu. “This way, you get to taste a lot more of what we have in store,” says executive chef Sheetharaman Prasad. Also, if you enjoy a course, we’re told, you’re welcome to ask for seconds.

<em>Amuse bouche | Pic: R Satish Babu</em>
Amuse bouche | Pic: R Satish Babu

 

Fire & cotton
Our first course is an amuse bouche with a mini raspberry tart that offers a pop of sweetness, a short glass of Kokum Sharbath for a refresher and an edible cotton ball with a topping of vanilla custard. The latter has us most curious, mimicking the texture of cotton. And we find out that it is made of plant cellulose through a complex process of whipping and dehydration over 24 hours — we would have asked for a demo had we not been distracted by the Jackfruit Seed Soup next. Warm and hearty, this is exactly what you want after stepping out of the November rain and into a restaurant for lunch. We tasted lentils, a hit of curry powder and toasted jackfruit seeds that offered both flavour and crunch. Other highlights of the afternoon were the King Prawn Balchao prepared in a tangy gravy accompanied by baby pooris and slow-cooked lamb chops that arrived on a grill so the server could put the final touches on at our table using a blow torch for a dash of flame and drama. 

<em>Mutton vindaloo with sannas | Pic: R Satish Babu</em>
Mutton vindaloo with sannas | Pic: R Satish Babu



Vindaloo lovin’
Showmanship and theatre continue to weave in and out of our tasting with a chaat course later that delivers Aam Ras Ka Puris in whiffs of dramatic white smoke from a liquid nitrogen device. The latter is also used to make us the most heavenly on-the-spot Tender Coconut Ice Cream garnished with a single rose petal for a touch of romance. We wish the Bebinca that sits beside it were a tad warm to contrast the temperatures but c’est la vie. If there was one dish we would go back for on any day of the week, it would have to be the Mutton Vindaloo paired with sannas. The meat falls off the bone with ease, while the vindaloo has us licking our fingers and eager to get a repeat serving. The secret ingredient, we’re told, is a splash of coconut vinegar which is part of the marinade. We also recommend the Kundapur Ghee Roast which is slathered with dried kokum paste for that marriage of sweet and sour that just hits the spot.

On till December 13. Lunch and dinner. Vegetarian at INR 1,800 ++, Non-vegetarian at INR 2,050 ++
 

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