Sadya trip: Thiruvananthapuram to Kasaragod

The Onam sadya is different across regions. TNIE speaks to culinary experts and chefs about the feast they grew up relishing
Onam Sadya
Onam Sadya

Malayalis across the globe are prepping for a grand Onam feast. Even in this unity in love for the sadya, there is diversity. The integral elements of a traditional sadya can vary from 18 to 28 dishes from region to region in the state. Yadhu Pazhayidom, the son of sadya legend Pazhayidom Mohanan Namboothiri, says what one finds is a “mix of various styles” these days. 

“An ideal sadya should have 15 to 23 dishes, including two types of payasam,” he adds. “There are regional variations. For instance, puli inji is a hot favourite in central Travancore and Malabar areas. Also, I have noted sadya is not that popular in the Kasaragod region.” 

More than just paal payasam and boli
Many culinary experts say the Thiruvananthapuram sadya is the best. The liquid consistency of parippu curry and masala koottu-curry served with soaked moong dal vada are some special items in a Thiruvananthapuram sadya. Then, of course, it is known for the ‘paal payasam-boli’ combination. 
“Though the ‘thekkan’ (southern) sadya still follows the traditional style, it used to be much grander than in the past,” says Thiruvananthapuram-based chef Arun Vijayakumar. 

“We derived the style of parippu and ghee combination. Almost all houses in the district used to own cattle, so the ghee used to be homemade. Also, the ghee-parippu combination is considered good for digestion.” Since farming was the main livelihood years ago, rice and vegetables were abundant, and that resulted in a variety of dishes. “The must-haves of Travancore sadya are koottukari, katti erishery using pumpkin, snake gourd thoran, yam stem and green gram thoran, to name a few,” says Arun. 

“There was a popular saying: ‘Chenathandu Cherupayar, Nalathanne Thiruvonam’. Availability of ingredients depends on geographical conditions. Earlier, many farmers used to cultivate tapioca. So, people used to make tapioca chips and sago pearls chips for Thiruvonam.”   

Elaborate and special 
A mention of Onam takes 70-year-old Nalini Menon of Kochi on a nostalgia trip. She recalls how the mud hearth fireplace of her ancestral house’s kitchen would be alive, right from during the wee hours. 
“The cooking would start early in the morning. In those days, everyone lived in joint families. So cooking sadya was a celebratory activity,” she says. “The day begins with a bath in the pond at our tharavadu. Then we would deck up in the Onakkodi, or new clothes. Plantain leaves to serve the sadya are kept ready on Uthradam day itself. It is said one should not hurt plants on Thiruvonam.” 

Sadya, back then, was not as ‘colourful’ as today, says Nalini. “The dishes were prepared from the vegetables and ingredients available on the house premises,” she says. “Breakfast on Thiruvonam is normally poovada, which is prepared for Thrikkakara Appan (avatar of Lord Vishnu) as a ritual. Sadya is served by 12.30pm. For elders, betel leaf and areca nut were mandatory after the meal.”
Nalini says, in central Kerala sadyas, the katti parippu (mashed dal) would have a gravy consistency.

“Plantain and yam chips would be prepared much in advance. There would usually be more than 20 dishes. The kurukku kalan has a dry, thick consistency, and it would be prepared ahead of the Thiruvonam feats. Yam and raw bananas are roasted and mixed with curd, pepper, turmeric and chilli powder. It is good for digestion,” she adds.

Popular desserts were paalada payasam and chakka (jackfruit) payasam. “Jackfruit season comes just before Onam. So loads of ripened jackfruit is roasted and stored in air-tight containers in every house. With that, we used to make payasam.”  Though settled in Scotland, young IT professional and food blogger Keerthy Nair sticks to the traditional Onam style of her hometown in Angamaly. She says the traditional sadya in her place does not include parippu.

“Avial at our home used to have dry consistency. In Travancore style, it is mushy. The pachadi here is made using sweet vegetables and fruits; kichadi is made from mango, bitter gourd and ladies’ finger,” she says.  “For olan, we use kumbalanga and cowpea. In some regions, olan is prepared using pumpkin and long beans. There will be a thoran and mezhukkupuratti too in our sadya using the peel of banana and long beans.”

Must have meats
When it comes to Kannur and Kozhikode, there is a strong element of spiciness, says chef Shameem Ahammed. From sambar to pachadi, the taste is very different. “We use coconut ground paste in sambar, which is not found in the Thiruvananthapuram sadya. Also, the lineup of dishes is not followed in a particular way like in the south. We also do not serve salt before sharkara varatti,” he says. 

“All our curries have strong tastes, including salt and sweetness. Pazham payasam and rice payasam are mostly served on Onam.” Regarding meat dishes, Shameem adds that the fishes like avoli and aykura, and chicken fry are part of sadya in some parts of Malabar.

Food vlogger Mohammed Jamsheed Y of Kasaragod says Onam sadya is not very common in his neighbourhood. “Thottukari is prepared using leafy vegetables here. As the district is close to Karnataka, there is a Mangaluru influence, too. So, our sadya differs from the traditional style of southern regions,” he says. “We have semiya (vermicelli), cherupayar, kadala and wheat payasams, rather than paalada.”

Jamsheed adds the sadya includes dishes with meat too. “Though we don’t eat meat on Thiruvonam day at our home, I have seen many people serving it. Chicken curry is specially made on Onam days. And, in the hilly areas near Bandiyod, Christian families serve pork during Onam celebrations,” he says.

Balanced diet 
Many say sadya is a balanced diet, if consumed in the right way. Chef Arun calls it “a package of nutrients with nature’s hallmark”. “The dishes, from pickle to avial, are like Amuse-Bouches, as they are all one-bite elements. Olan is placed after pickles, as it acts as a palette cleanser and helps savour the next bite. Sharkara varatti is a salivary gland activator. Pumpkins and yams are powerhouses of nutrients. Jackfruit is good for the thyroid and boosts immunity,” he explains. He adds that if there are leftover dishes, years ago, people used to make ‘pazhankoottan’ using them a grand mishmash.  

How to have sadya 
The ‘Thushan’ ila must face your left-hand side. The order of items is different across communities and regions. But usually, avial comes at the right-hand side of the leaf. In most sadya, the first bite of rice is taken with parippu and ghee. After payasam, it is good to take a second serving of rice with buttermilk. “Inji thairu is said to be equal to 108 dishes and it is the best for the digestive system,” says Yadhu.

Banana peel on plate
Many in central Kerala have thoran and mezhukkupuratti too with the sadya, especially using raw banana peel, cabbage etc

Chicken Curry from north Kerala

Ingredients

  • Chicken curry cut - 1 kilo cleaned 
  • Onion - 2
  • Tomato- 2
  • Green chillies- 2
  • Ginger - a small piece
  • Garlic- two cloves
  • Curry leaves
  • Cilantro
  • Coconut oil

Method
In a pan, pour oil and saute onion and tomato. Add crushed ginger, garlic, chilli mix and curry leaves. Add chicken cut pieces and mix well. When cooked, add four tablespoons of chilli powder, two tablespoons of turmeric, two tablespoons of coriander powder, one teaspoon of pepper powder, and salt for taste. Mix the masalas with the chicken and saute. Pour hot water into the mix and cook well on medium flame. Adjust the spiciness and salt accordingly. Add ground coconut and saute in coconut oil with Kashmiri chilli powder. Add it to the mix. 

Green Apple Pickle

Ingredients

  • Green Apple - 4-6
  • Garlic cloves- 15-20
  • Turmeric powder- 1/2 tsp
  • Chilli powder- 1 1/2 tsp
  • Kashmiri chilli powder- 3 tsp 
  • Asafoetida- 1 tsp (can add more if you like it)
  • Fenugreek powder- 1/4 tsp
  • Vinegar- 1/4 cup
  • Water- 1 1/2 cup
  • Salt- To taste
  • Gingelly oil- 250 ml
  • Mustard seeds- 3 tsp

Method
Heat oil in a pan and add mustard seeds. When they splutter, add the methi seeds and sliced garlic. Saute for a 2 minutes. Reduce the heat, add the spices and saute. Add the diced apples and saute for 2-3 minutes. Add the vinegar-water mixture with salt and bring to boil. The pickle will thicken soon, turn off the stove at this point and let it cool. 

Hibiscus Rasam

Ingredients

  • Hibiscus flowers- 8
  • Garlic cloves- 10
  • Shallots - 10
  • Green chillies- 3-4
  • Chili powder- 1 tsp
  • Kashmiri chilli powder- 2 tsp
  • Asafoetida- 1 tsp
  • Cumin powder- 1/2 tsp
  • Pepper powder- 1 tsp
  • Turmeric powder-1/2 tsp
  • Coriander powder- 1 tsp
  • Jaggery- 1 tsp
  • Salt- to taste
  • Coconut oil- 2 tsp
  • Curry leaves- 5-8
  • Dry chillies- 2-4
  • Mustard seeds- 1 tsp
  • Tamarind- Size of a lemon ball
  • Coriander leaves- For garnish

Method
Separate petals. Wash them and chop finely. Heat oil in a pan and add mustard seeds. Once they splutter, add dry chillies, curry leaves, minced shallots and garlic. Saute till the garlic and shallots start to brown. Add chopped petals and saute for 2-3 minutes. Add 1 cup water and bring it to boil. Add the spice powders and salt, and let the rasam simmer. Add tamarind extract after 5 minutes and let the rasam simmer for 5-6 minutes. Add jaggery and simmer for 2 minutes. Garnish with coriander leaves.

Varatti Truffles

Recipe by:  Amrutha Kamath

Ingredients

  • White Chocolate chopped - 125 gms
  • Fresh Cream - 50 Gms
  • Sharkara varatti - 50 Gms
  • Butter - 1 tbsp

Method 

  • Take chopped white chocolate in a heat proof vessel. Heat some water in a heavy bottom vessel and place the white chocolate on top, so that the vessel is not touching the water. (double boiling method).
  • Let the chocolate melt by the steam of water. Add cream, softened butter and stir well.
  • Crush the sharkara varatti in a mixie to a coarse powder. Add the powder to the chocolate mixture and mix until everything is combined well.
  • Cover and set this in the refrigerator for an hour. 
  • Scoop out a small amount from this and shape them to a ball or ladoo shape. 
  • Crush more sharkara varatti and just crumb coat the truffle balls in it to get an extra crunch of sharkara varatti. Refrigerate for half an hour and the Varatti truffles are ready. 

Nariyal Halwa recipe

Recipe by: Archana Gupta, Founder, chef of Zero Guilt, a traditional indian desserts brand

  • VEGAN/KETO/LOW CARB 
  • Servings - 4

Ingredients 

  • 100 gm coconut powder
  • 40ml extra virgin coconut oil
  • 100 ml coconut milk
  • 6gm stevia or any other sweetener of your choice and per taste.
  • 8strands of saffron
  • Cardamom
  • Cashews, almonds and pista for garnishing.

Method

  • Take a wok and put 40ml coconut oil and coconut powder in it.
  • Roast coconut powder for approximately 8 minutes till it turns light brown.
  • Add coconut milk, saffron, sweetener and cardamom to it. 
  • Keep stirring till moisture is absorbed and the mixture starts releasing oil. Switch off the gas and garnish it with cashews, almonds and pista. 

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