Bombay Brasserie takes us India trippin’ on a plate

This new menu has tasteful picks from regions like Gujarat, Amritsar, Kerala and Rajasthan
Bombay Brasserie takes us India trippin’ on a plate

My companion has a cold. And she is a vegetarian — both disadvantages — while tasting a new menu. Well, from my unabashedly gluttonous standpoint, at least. 

Soup in a chai glass
But the lovely folks at Bombay Brasserie quickly come to the rescue with a Crackling Tamatar Soup. She finds comfort in a warm blanket, designed for sore vocal chords of course. While I find my attention diverted to the cutting chai glass the soup arrives in. This is a couple of courses before the curries arrive in lofty jam jars — although, as you can tell — the Pinterest-worthy plating has our attention right off the bat. 

<em>Aam papad paneer</em>
Aam papad paneer



As for the spread of mostly North Indian fare — we’re served a feast across regions, because as brand chef Chetan Bolar tells us, the dishes on the list are a culmination of inspiration excavated from personal visits to places like Gujarat, Amritsar, Kerala and Rajasthan. “We’ve brought back local ingredients that can only be found in a particular place,” says the 28-year-old who is based in Mumbai, when we catch up with him later on the phone. Like one of the early appetisers — the Aam papad paneer — which he reminisces features chaat masala bought from a trip to Amritsar and thin strips of aam papad only available there. A mix of sweet, laced with tang and the occasional lotus stem for crunch — this one’s a winner. 

Sherbet & bhut jolokia
Mini puffed kulchas filled with liquid cheese grab our fancy next. Unfortunately, we can't pop as many as we’d like because of the strong hit of heat from the green chilli bits in the mix. We turn to our Chai Sherbet for relief — which we get at once from an urgent chug. Although we must admit, we wouldn’t have known there was any Assam tea in the blend if not for the menu description!

<em>Kashmiri naan kebab </em>
Kashmiri naan kebab 

Nani & me
There are Kashmiri Naan Kebabs to be had later (hand-ground mutton mince seekh infused with flavours of kebab chini served on a saffron brushed naan). Even better are the Naga Gosht Pepper Wings flavoured with the famous bhut jolokia chilli. It’s no surprise we rely on the creamy walnut dip for respite, but plough anyway because it has us hooked. There are varied Indian breads to accompany the meaty assemblage before us — buttered romalis, mixed seed rotis and so forth. But we find ourselves drawn to homestyle rice, moist from a coconut milk bath and wrapped in a banana leaf. Had with the Coast to Coast Chicken (our personal favourite in the main course) — is a feel-good combination we would definitely go back for. Curious that we’re unable to grasp any dominant flavour cues to this curry — we ask the chef what the secret is. Turns out,“It is made with a  30-spice Malwani masala from the region!” he responds.

<em>Ras-E-Aam</em>
Ras-E-Aam


Dessert is a Ras-E-Aamrasagulla nested in rich rabdi topped with aamras made with Alphonso mangoes. If you’re in a chocolate mood however, there’s always Grandma’s Choco Treat (inspired by Nani’s sugar parathas except with a sea of chocolate sauce). We found it a tad too sweet for the adult palate but your five-year-old might voraciously lick away your share in 
disagreement.

Meal for two  Rs 1,500.

sonali@newindianexpress.com | @brightasunshine

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