The savage mountain. An ice giant claiming the second place in height (right behind Mt Everest) and fatality rate among climbers (next to Mt Annapurna). The only one among eight-thousanders (14 mountains above 8,000 m) that has never been climbed in winter. This is the description of Mt K2 (8,611m) without hyperboles.
Notorious for its steep faces which require technical climbing skills and an arduous trek leading to the base camp, summiting this cloud breacher is a much-coveted trophy that only fewer than 500 people have kissed.
Even as the winter ascent of the mount aka Godwin-Austen or Chhogori remains the taunting ‘last problem of the Himalayas’—a common phrase among mountaineers used to describe difficult feats—young Polish athlete Andrzej Bargiel is raising the bars in mountaineering by recently becoming the first adventurer to ski down Mt K2. A daring move, considering that the last two athletes who attempted this challenge met their fates.
“I wanted to try if skiing will work in higher altitudes. It was my private goal,” says Andrzej, whose summitting without supplemental oxygen is in itself a feat. With ski mountaineering getting global attention as it’s been chosen as the eighth sport for The Winter Youth Olympic Games to be held in Switzerland in 2020, we talk to this 30-year-old trailblazer about his historic feat.
Your project, Hic Sunt Leones, was started to make ski descents of the highest mountains in the world. What do you consider as your major achievements so far?
During the first expedition in 2013, I reached the summit of Shishapangma (8,013 m). A year later, I set new records at Manaslu (8,156 m), reaching the summit in a record time of 14 hours 15 minutes. In 2015, I skied down from this summit of Broad Peak (8,051 m). At the turn of July-August in 2016, I set a new record in gaining the five highest peaks of the former USSR, the so-called Snow Leopard. I made it in 30 days, breaking the record set in 1999 by Denis Urubko and Andrei Molotov.
K2 is considered one of the most dangerous mountains in the world to climb, notoriously gaining the name ‘Savage Mountain’. Can you describe the toughest parts of it for you as a solo skier-climber?
I train a lot throughout the whole year to be able to take on such complex and demanding challenges. I guess if you’re prepared well enough and the weather conditions are appropriate then you can do it safely and carry all the necessary equipment without particular problems.
Regarding the toughest part, the thing is that something or the other was happening throughout the expedition. We were involved in a few rescue activities and on the day I was planning to start the summit push, Janusz Gołąb, my climbing partner, had some back pain issues. However, if we talk only about my solo descent, I think the Messner Traverse was the toughest part. We all knew that being in that place even for a minute is like being exposed to tremendous danger and we all felt relief once I passed this traverse and reached Kukuczka-Piotrowki route.
How did you pass the Bottleneck, which is said to be the most dangerous region to cross?
During my descent, I used about 30 meters of rope above the Bottleneck so as to not put the other climbers who were descending from the summit in danger. I was afraid that I could trigger an avalanche as there was a lot of fresh snow on the ice cover. Then I traversed below the serac and passed the Bottleneck on the left side, when looked on from the bottom. The snow conditions were good out there.
Last year you couldn't attempt the feat because of the weather. We learn that you faced some bad weather on the descent. How did you tackle this?
To be able to complete the ski descent I need good visibility. Otherwise, it doesn't work. During my K2 descent, it started to be cloudy in the upper parts of the mountain and the visibility was poor so I had to wait for over 1 hour at the altitude of camp IV for the weather to get clearer. The members of my team: Marek, Piotrek and Bartek, they were checking on weather with different people and giving me weather updates on the radio.
Michał Pyka from Poland was providing us with weather forecasts which helped us in choosing the best moment for summit push and also for the descent. Luckily the weather got better and I could continue my descent.
In the lower parts on Kukuczka-Piotrowski route, I had to trigger small avalanches to make the snow fall before I could descend safely in those parts.
The expedition also saw what is touted as the highest known drone flight while filming. What are the challenges of flying drones in extreme altitudes, and using it as a tool in rescue?
My brother, Bartek Bargiel, participates in my expeditions to film my descent. He relies on favourable weather conditions and adjusts drone software to check the conditions in inaccessible areas.
Fortunately, we were able to use the drone to rescue Scottish mounteneer Rick Allen. A cook from the Japanese expedition team raised our attention and we checked the place in which Rick actually was through our telescope.
In the beginning, we weren’t even sure if he was still alive. At first, my brother flew the drone to the place where he was to check on his general condition, to see if he had gloves, glasses, any injuries etc. Bartek also pointed Rick in the direction he should move in and led the rescue team to where he exactly was.
That wasn’t the only moment in which Bartek used his drone to help other people. During summit push, when my climbing partner, Janusz Gołąb, experienced severe back pain, Bartek used the drone to deliver medical supplies to Camp III where Janusz was at that moment.
Of course, there might be opinions that drones can be disturbing in such places. However, I believe that they can be very helpful and save time in critical situations, instead of sending a team of people to do it.
Now that you’ve conquered K2, have you thought about what’s next?
Right now I’m not thinking about it. First of all, I need to rest, spend some time with my family and friends. I came back from my expedition over a week ago and I still haven’t returned to my house in Zakopane. Since winter is coming, there will be plenty of opportunities to travel and search for the best possible conditions for training.
Watch the drone footage online here.