lifestyleIF THE Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) model hunt held late last month is anything to go by, inclusivity and diversity is well and truly becoming the order of the day. With six girls representing different corners of the country being chosen from over 100 aspirants, by a panel of judges that included Sophie Choudry and designer Shane Peacock, it’s safe to say that the future of the industry is in good hands. We spoke to the winning models, who let us in on their journey to Lakmé Fashion Week, as well as experts in the field, and this is what they had to say...
Diversity is a term oft repeated while describing the modelling industries outside India, but of late, it has been a familiar refrain here as well. “There has been a gradual shift towards greater acceptance of different standards of beauty. But we still have a long way to go,” offers designer Urvashi Kaur, who’s known for her handwoven garments crafted from Indian textiles. Designers and handloom revivalists like Gaurang Shah, whose clients include the likes of Vidya Balan, are making a strong case for diversity and inclusivity by employing models of all shapes and sizes. “To me, my models need to create a desire to own the handloom piece shown on the ramp or through a photoshoot. She can be dark, fair, tall, short or any size for the matter, but she needs to bring my designs to life,” says Gaurang, who broke convention by making a pregnant Carol Gracias his showstopper at the Lakmé Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016 show. Urvashi feels that the concept of beauty is always changing. “We need to constantly update our ideas of beauty, incorporating diversity and newer concepts of what the representation of beauty must look like. Body positivity is the need of the hour and we have to keep pushing for the same,” she says.
Beauty spot
Meanwhile, at the Mercedes showroom on Kasturba Road in Bengaluru, a few days ago, we found fashion consultant and choreographer Prasad Bidapa busy getting a group of young girls and boys to follow his lead. For over three decades now, Prasad has been training and grooming models to take up the ramp at the highest levels. “The modelling industry has always been highly competitive. In cities like Mumbai, a fresher has almost no chance of getting into the industry unless he or she has serious connections,” says Prasad, who has launched the careers of names like Deepika Padukone and Anushka Sharma. “When I look for a model, I look for basic factors. A proportionate body, even features, coordinated movements — these are some of the must-haves. I like models who take their job seriously and make an extra effort to be the best they can,” adds Prasad, whose model training programmes involve theatre workshops, self-improvement lectures, and other talks and hands-on sessions that help them develop well-rounded personalities.
Another of Prasad’s finds, supermodel Mitali Rannorey, who has worked with designers such as Shivan & Narresh, Tarun Tahiliani, Anita Dongre and Gaurav Gupta, and is one of the faces on the Kingfisher 2018 calendar, believes that making the cut and staying relevant in an industry that’s constantly evolving is only going to get more challenging. “The type of models required has changed. Designers are taking cues from international runways, preferring fresh and younger faces. Even the desired body type is in keeping with international standards, which is not curvy,” shares Mitali.
Click bait
Ace fashion photographer and Bollywood producer, Atul Kasbekar, who was recently in the news for expressing his desire to revive the concept of the ‘supermodel’ in India, puts the growing competitiveness down to numbers. “When I started my career as an advertising photographer, you could count us on your fingertips. Today, you could throw a stone and hit a decent photographer. For models, it’s the same. Besides, there’s a rampant influx of foreign models into India which doesn’t help our local talent,” he explains. “But once you know your look and what works for you as a model, you can improve and learn from observing things around you,” says Urvashi.
While the colour of one’s skin is of little importance to Atul, while casting models, he still believes that their body needs to be in great shape. “I’ve personally never shot for a fairness cream and I’ve made it a point to promote duskier girls. As far as size goes, if you are a model, your face and body is your fortune and need to be in optimum condition. As a photographer, I need to ensure my equipment is
current and in perfect working condition. While I’m not standing in judgement of anyone’s size in general, a fashion model needs to be simply in the best shape possible,” he says.
MEET THE MODELS....
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Mariana Falaschi
About 40 days after flying in from Italy, Mariana Falaschi, part-Italian part-Brazilian, found herself in the company of over hundred other models at the St Regis Mumbai, where the auditions were held. “The audition was hard. There were more than 100 girls and I thought I wouldn’t get selected but I did my best, I walked with confidence and that is what made the difference,” says Mariana, an acupuncturist who has a bachelor’s degree in veterinary science. Having been in the industry for four years now, Mariana has walked the ramp for designers from Milan to Beijing. “Modelling for me is a job and a passion. I like that I can be creative everyday. Modelling also allows me to travel to different countries and live different cultures,” she explains.
Diet focus: I am a vegetarian and I avoid eating carbs and sugar at night. I workout at the gym or at home at least four times a week.
Priti Jana
Meeting supermodel Noyonika Chatterjee was all Kolkata’s Priti Jana needed to boost her confidence and change her life. “In school, I was always a quiet kid, nobody spoke to me, and I was a last-bencher. There was a beauty pageant in Kolkata, where I met Noyonika Chatterjee, and she was my grooming head. She really made me believe in myself, and that was when I started becoming more confident,” begins the model who auditioned for Lakmé Fashion Week the second time, after being rejected on her first attempt. While travelling and meeting new people might be a huge part of the industry, it’s every little detail of the process that appeals to her. “Wearing beautiful clothes, posing for pictures, walking the ramp, the life, the grace, the makeup, the beauty, the hair, the greenroom, the friends, the travelling, the food, the lifestyle... I love everything about modelling,” enthuses Priti, who is now based in Mumbai.
Break a sweat: I do weight training thrice a week, and Crossfit and kickboxing thrice a week. On Sundays, I have my pole dancing class.
Rishitha Koruturu
It’s only been a year since she started modelling but in that short span, Hyderabad-based Rishitha has won the Trends Miss Hyderabad pageant, landed a spot in reality TV show Top Model India, with judges such as Lisa Haydon, Atul Kasbekar and Anaita Shroff and now, become one of only six models making their Lakmé Fashion Week debut. “From the day I started modelling, my aim has been to be part of Lakmé Fashion Week,” reveals Rishitha, who has a degree in mechanical engineering. “Being on the show (Top Model) and getting a chance to work with professionals gave me a taste of what I wanted for my career. Right after the show, Lakmé Fashion Week happened, and it’s been great so far,” she adds.
Breaking myths: What people see on magazine covers or hoardings is a result of a lot of work from experts in each field. So, people need to stop comparing themselves to that.
Rewati Chetri
Haflong, a picturesque resort town, is the only hill station in Assam. For Rewati Chetri, who hails from there, shifting base to Mumbai to make it in the world of fashion must have been a culture shock in more ways than one. Asked about her being named as one of six new faces at LFW, she says, “Success stories come with a fair share of struggles. Some of my toughest days were when I initially shifted to Mumbai. I struggled with the long and odd work hours, numerous auditions, rejections and the uncertainty of a steady income. But over time, I have been able to overcome these fears.” Currently pursuing a law degree in Guwahati, the 25-year-old believes that modeling has helped her get to know herself. “Modelling has helped to discover the new me. It inspires me to be expressive, beautiful, versatile and unabashed,” she says.
Model behaviour: Standing in front of the camera, a good model must be able to transform, connect and emote effortlessly.
Sharvi Bhujbal
Mumbaikar, Sharvi Bhujpal believes that she has what it takes to be the next Deepika Padukone. “Deepika is the person I look up to as just like her, I am pursuing modelling after being an athlete. She came into the industry without any godfather and LFW was her first big break too and I see myself treading the same path,” she begins. Sharvi, who has a Bachelor in Arts from Jai Hind College, Mumbai, was an athlete right from school. “Back in the day, when I would sprint, I would need to focus, and that focus is what has helped me on the ramp as well,” shares the 23-year-old. Talking about the LFW auditions, she says, “After the first round, I panicked. I gave myself a little pep talk right before the second and the third rounds. And luckily, I made it,” she recalls.
Parting shot: Fit is the new sexy. Models no longer strive to look thin. The idea is to look fit and healthy.
Dechka Asthakumar
For national-level basketball player and avid biker, Dechka Asthakumar, modelling was really not on the agenda until very recently. “It was not something I was planning to turn into a career. I just happened to audition for Elite Model Look (the international modelling contest that is responsible for spotting talent like Cindy Crawford and Gisele Bundchen) and was selected as a finalist as part of the model hunt last year. I was scouted by my agency, Faze Management and there has been no looking back since,” shares the Bengalurean, who is originally from Coorg. For someone who is new to the field of modelling, Dechka’s goals might sound like a tall order, but her dedication and hardwork could well get her there. “I hope to become an international model some day and grace the runways at New York, London and Milan,” says Dechka who counts Carol Gracias and Dayana Erappa as her role models.
Word of advice: It is important to approach the right agency that would work well with you and make the correct decisions for your long-term growth. The right agency is important to mentor and guide you every step of the way and I am grateful that I have that with the Faze team.