Eight biggest trends from the recently concluded Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI

From twin sets and unapologetically glamorous dresses and sarees, to sculptural masterpieces and silhouettes designed for relaxation, the Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with Fashion Design Council of India, held at Mumbai, had numerous trends to earmark and incorporate. Amit Aggarwal, as expected, wowed audiences with his textural and gravity defying collection Onyx, while Shyamal & Bhumika impressed with their bridal and occasion wear edit in subtle and subdued pastel shades, and Swapna Anumolu of Mishru took the opposite approach with bright, eye catching colours. We get the designers to weigh in on the strongest trends of the season.

Pastel perfect
Taking inspiration from nature, history and architecture, designer duo Shyamal & Bhumika showcased Blooms of Paradise, a line-up of ensembles in muted pastels with intricate embroidered detailing. “The freshness and playfulness of organic pastel shades with intricate light embroidery will be one of the highlights this season. Little details like romantic floral patterns, dramatic flares, fluid cowls, layered outfits, sensuous blouses with lehengas, sheer jackets over shift kurtas, capes over jumpsuits and corseted bodices, among others are trending at the moment. In our collection, you can see a variety of rare hand-embroidery on silk and antique-finish metal threads, mixed with pearls, beads and colourful resham. In terms of colours, our palette is a mix of muted shades like English-rose pink, muted-ivory, powder-blue, dusty-mint and lunar-grey,” explains Bhumika Shodhan.

Bright idea
Form and Feeling, the collection by Mishru, saw the use of shades like fuchsia and lime green. Talking about the trend, designer Swapna Anumolu says, “We don’t really believe in trends but it’s a happy coincidence that our intense new colours, especially fuchsia and lime green, are really having a moment across the world and on international runways as well. However, for us, always on trend would be our 3D embroideries across silhouettes ranging from Indian to contemporary.”

Keep it classic 
Amit Aggarwal’s Onyx, a study in black, white and silver, was in keeping with his futuristic aesthetic, with sculptural pieces dominating, per usual. At the same time, however, there was also an emphasis on clean, classic silhouettes. “Right now, it’s trendy to invest in versatile garments that you could style in multiple ways. For this season, I’ve focused on classic and clean silhouettes, such as a blazer, and a micro mini dress. The collection also has some fluid resort wear staples that are versatile,” says Amit.

More is more
For designer Saaksha Bhat, one half of the label Saaksha & Kinni, this season is about going all out. Their collection, Prism, heavy on geometric and abstract prints and featuring a vibrant colour palette, is the epitome of OTT dressing. “Think bold, over the top, exaggerated silhouettes and bright colours that pop. After years of working from home, people are in the mood to really dress up,” Saaksha explains.

The right mix
Melange of Ideas by Anand Kabra lived up to its moniker with its chaotic yet alluring mix of various trends. “Some of the most important trends for me would be classic colours, like ivory and black, ‘mix-and-match’ ensembles, and lots of prints,” says, Anand, adding that his collection comprises everything from luxurious silks like chiffon, dupion and habotai constructed to create relaxed and soft silhouettes in a palette that shifts warm white, charcoal and mustard to pale sky blue and vermilion.

Metallic heads
In her collection, P.O.N.D.I., an homage to the coastal town of Pondicherry, Reby J Kumar of Guapa, showed a strong affinity for metallics and fringes, which she predicts are bound to be in focus this season. “Metallics and fringes are huge this season, especially statement flamboyant pieces with metallic details. This season, we’ve stuck to our signature easy, breezy and happy clothes while subtly incorporating the two biggest trends. You’ll see metallic blazers worn over bikinis, dresses made with only lace and fringes and fringed canvas bags,” shares Reby.

Twinning and winning 
“The biggest trend, both in India and globally, is light, fluid twin sets for occasion wear. We’ve seen it on the red carpet, on Zendaya and other celebrities. Especially two-piece sets — crop tops and asymmetric tops with skirts or culottes,” says Payal Singhal, whose collection, Painterly, was a result of her rediscovering her love for painting. “Another big trend is bandeau tops with edgy backs and straps worn with well-fitting narrow skirts. We’ve showcased both the trends largely across our embroidered and printed silhouettes this season,” she adds.
 

Pearl spotting
While couturier Anushree Reddy stuck to her signature bridal aesthetic, she decided not to hold back this time around. The result? Ultra glamorous lehengas and gowns with over-the-top bling, crystals, sequins and a lot more. However, there was one detail that she chose to go with that was in keeping with what she believes is on track to become a strong bridal trend in the coming months. “I think miniature pearl embroidery is one of the biggest trends this season. It’s very subtle and elegant. We have used a lot of it in this collection. It’s lightweight yet glamorous and dressy,” shares Anushree.