The handprinted Folklure collection by Satya Paul pays homage to homegrown desi design forms
The reason we end up with unrealistic expectations from every Satya Paul collection is that the designer has been delivering the most unpredictable sartorial excellence since he started his roll in 1985. It is important to note, that his label introduced the idea that a sari can be runway-worthy and also started choreographed collections in Indian fashion.
The designer's conceptual saris and vivid colour symmetry turned a desi staple into powerhouse statement wear. So, when we dropped into his Park Circus flagship to check out his new collection we were obviously already prepared to be floored. The showcase, hosted by Dr Tehnaz Dastoor, also featured a styling masterclass with master draper Pinky Kenworthy which made it all the merrier.
The newest limited-edition line-up Folklure is a nod to homegrown artistry as the designer has closely worked together with weavers and artists to learn techniques which they have honed over generations. The line of hand-printed saris reinterpret design forms such as Gondh, Kalamkari and Madhubani to appeal to the younger crop of fashion enthusiasts, who are looking for more adventurous styling.
We are told that the collection has mainly been inspired by the bold colours and graphic strokes of these three unique folk styles, which also complement the signature Satya Paul look to create a futuristic power ensemble.
The Mahua sari, for instance, has been influenced by the intricate Madhubani style of painting and uses the colours of blue, coral and white to re-imagine the age-old Mahua tree on pure silk crepe, embellished with the label’s signature crystal work which is both enlightening and full of rhythm.
In addition to the hand-printed saris, the autumn/winter 2019-20 collection also comprises ready-to-wear tunic-palazzo sets, stoles, scarves and shawls in signature prints which make for stellar occasion wear. The menswear edit of the collection serves up understated luxury with a range of fine cufflinks, leather belts and wallets, pocket squares and graphic ties.
What really makes his saris so relevant is their breezy wearability - a Satya Paul sari is perhaps the most versatile number you can invest in this season. We say this because you can literally wear it with anything, from a belt to a shirt or a denim jacket.
One of our favourite pieces from the Folklure collection is the Mithila Mosaic sari which has been inspired by the rich imagery and bold brushstrokes of Madhubani paintings, which are renowned for their nature-related motifs and symbols of prosperity. The gorgeous sari pays a graphic homage to the people and landscape of this country’s cultural mosaic. Price on request.