Rahul Dasgupta's label is set to give men a sartorial advantage in Kolkata
In this pandemic when the fashion industry has suffered a major setback, Rahul Dasgupta is swimming against the tide. The 30-year-old NIFT graduate has launched his eponymous label last week at Ballygunge, after working for a fashion house for four years. And he is set to dress up men with his aesthetics of blending classic designs with contemporary elements.
“It was quite a natural progression for me to start my own label after working for Rukeru. Though Rukeru is a women’s wear brand I wanted to dress up men with the same aesthetics of fusion wear that I followed there. The launch was scheduled in April this year but the lockdown changed my plans a bit,” offers Dasgupta who uses traditional techniques to add a contemporary touch to the classic silhouettes of kurta, achkan, Jodhpuri jackets, sherwani and shirts using comfortable fabrics like silk, organza and mashru cotton.
The couturier plays with the surface of the fabrics by applying techniques like hand faggoting, tie and die and more. Taking inspiration from a physics theory for his debut edit Dasgupta says, “The common science experiment Sink or Float inspired this collection and every surface detailing in my edit is a reflection that.” The result is the abstract texture like tie and dye on chords forming the central panel of a classic kurta. The tie and dye technique is also used in the inner lining of the sherwanis and that lends a refreshing touch to the opulent wedding or festive wear. Hand faggoting also gives Dasgupta’s ethnic ensemble a contemporary touch, apart from quilting and tonal striped details.
While the general colour palette of the edit touches classic shades like navy blue, black, grey and steel, we find a hint of red in some pieces and Dasgupta informs that they are the teaser for his next edit. “With my present edit I want to give a hint to my clients about my upcoming line-up. I know the shade red is quite in contrast with what I have used now but I want to challenge myself,” informs Dasgupta with a hint of confidence in his voice. The designer plans to stock his collection in multi-designer stores across India and walk the ramp of popular fashion weeks in India and abroad once things get back to normal.