Kashmiri designer Zubair Kirmani weaves tales on Pashmina
Though work has taken him out of Kashmir for long periods, the beautiful state is the primary source of inspiration for designer Zubair Kirmani, who hails from Srinagar. The 40-year-old couturier's 15-year-old label, Bounipun -- which means Chinar leaf in Kashmiri -- is a meld of many moods and colours of this state, a central feature of his collections.
Whether it’s the traditional Kashmiri Kani embroidery, Sozni work or tilla work, Kirmani, draws inspiration from things inherently Kashmiri. "Kashmir is beautiful and elegant despite the violence, it's often associated with. There's so much optimism and colour in its people and nature. My collections aim at showcasing that spirit of Kashmir,” says the soft spoken designer, looking dapper in a bespoke, hand woven, grey pashmina jacket.
In his latest collection of Pashmina shawls, exhibited recently for the first time in 85 Lansdowne, Kirmani has created an eye-catching combination of the traditional and modern designs with an interplay of bright colours. The ensemble of shawls has a boho chic look, which one can carry throughout the day by wearing it in different styles. “Shawls can be worn in more than one ways and is a statement piece. You can carry it on one of your shoulders, wear it like a scarf around your neck or just wrap it around you when it gets too cold. At times you can also try the turban look with it,” smiles Kirmani.
The collection can be divided into classic and modern collections. One can choose from the very classic Kani weaves, where textile is the main focus. The shawls are in bright hues of red, orange, ochre and white, besides the natural beige colour of pashmina. The ambi or almond motifs, very typical of Kashmir lend a very traditional touch to the otherwise plain shawls.
For those who like their pashminas palin, there are a variety of the classic weaves in Khadi texture. A black and beige inter woven pashmina is for those who love understated and muted works. There are also the heavier pashmina shawls with more authentic and intricate Kashmiri works in tilla (zari in Kashmir), sozni and kani work all over the body.
There are also a wide collection of trendy pashmina stoles for the young and aspiring, who like to jazz up their evening with something ritzy. The geometric motifs with Khatambandh (Kashmiri wood work pieces adorning the ceiling of houseboats in Srinagar) patterns and floral borders in greys, whites and beiges are fetching. The very intricate cashmere threadwork on pashmina are not gaudy and can be worn to work and party with equal ease.
Also, look out for some great designs in digital prints in black, red and yellow to choose from.
Price on request. Available at 85 Lansdowne