If there’s one thing we’ve learned from perusing through Madsam Tinzin’s collections, it is that there is no separating the brand from its fascination with flowers. It could be one of their earlier collections, like the LFW GenNext 2017 Brok-pa, or something more recent like the 2019 Mallie — the inspiration is always rooted in nature. And yet, perhaps, the biggest standout in each of these lines is that they possess a unique tone and aesthetic that does not spill into the other.
Same kind of different
Once again, their festive 2020 line has no reservations in showcasing the brand’s leitmotif — the collection’s name, Buno Phool (which translates to wildflowers) clearly stating its obvious influence. “It is true, florals are a cliché,” agrees Madhuritu Dutta, with a laugh, “And, almost every other designers spring/summer collection is inspired by flowers. But, they are something that we as a brand have always loved, and that has remained at the core of our label.” However, the New Delhi-based designer, who is one of the four names (Saumya Sharma, Tina Bhardwaj and Stanzin Dazes being the others) behind the brand, explains that the inspiration is not only literal but the emotion that these buds evoke also spur their designs.
Stop and stare
Now, while the most evident floral influence in Buno Phool is seen in the choice of the colour palette: mauve, poppy red, onion pink, forest green and yellow, the subtler aspects come in the form of the placement of motifs. We love the eggshell blue wide-legged pants with floral embroidery near the ankles that look like cascading flowers, when the wearer is walking. “Wildflowers often go unnoticed, because they grow in the oddest of places, like a crack on the footpath. We have translated this idea by embroidering motifs in unusual places like the sleeve or cuff or ankle, instead of the body,” offers the 34-year-old.
The NIFT, Mumbai graduate further goes on to explain that this positioning of the threadwork allows for greater scope when it comes to dressing up or down an ensemble. “If a garment is heavy with embellishments around the neckline, you will not be able to accessorise your look with an additional neckpiece without it looking jarring or over-the-top. Our design philosophy is simple — accentuate the wearer’s beauty.”
Smooth as silk
Known for contemporary ethnic wear in silk, Buno Phool comprises of angarkha-inspired tunics, kalidar suits, shararas, short and long kurtas, saris and lehengas in crepe, organza, chiffon and georgette. “We love using silk because the nature of the fabric brings out the best of our minute and fine hand-embroidery — be it shadow work with chikankari, gota motifs, beadwork or even
french knots.”
Collection starts from Rs 30,000. At Collage.