There’s a sense of nostalgia that catches one off-guard as one glances through Drawings On A Slate, the Spring Summer 2018 collection from Itr by Khyati Pande, a label that is known for its anti-fit silhouettes, craft-centric aesthetic and classic appeal. “Every now and again, we need to take a step back and think about how things used to be. How we’d draw figures or write words on the slate, by hand. Now we’re attached to our iPads and Kindles. This collection was created with the aim to offer the warmth and comfort of long forgotten memories,” begins designer Khyati, who relaunched the label in 2015, after first launching it in 2013.
Based out of Noida, Khyati shares that Itr was born out of the need to go back to the time when her mother and aunts wore elegant handcrafted clothes. “I grew up surrounded by women wearing jamdanis and Benarasis. And I wanted to bring back that love for things made by hand. While I understand there are a lot of labels attempting to do the same thing, we hope to cater to everyone, regardless of age, with our clothes, and I think that’s something that sets us apart,” she shares.
Sticking to the Itr aesthetic, the SS18 line, boasts flowing silhouettes, easy fits and comfortable cuts. It is also big on layering and dramatic sleeves, and features dainty hand-embroidered detailing. “Last summer, we did a completely white collection, but this time around, the palette veers from white to grey to ochre, indigo and black,” explains the designer. Employing a mix of khadi-muslin, Kota cotton, and jute-cotton fabrics, Khyati has experimented with Rajasthani hand-block prints for the first time. “The designs — stripes, dots and checks — are modern, so the vibe is urban and contemporary,” she reveals, adding that her fabrics are sourced from weaving clusters in West Bengal and Gujarat. Besides the block-printed detailing, dots are also rendered in a few other forms. Take for example, the Almond Tree wrap dress. “It’s an indigo angarakha-style number with yellow jamdani dots. I think this dress is one of my favourites from the collection,” she enthuses.
Getting involved with weaving clusters is something that was always a key area of interest for Khyati. So while she’s currently working on a collection of linen saris with textiles sourced from Gujarat, she plans to travel to Tamil Nadu to collaborate with a weaver community in Gandhigram, later this year.
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