VINTAGE Varanasi silk brocade meets pre-partition Punjab in Raw Mango’s newest bridal collection — Heer. Designer Sanjay Garg’s Festive 2019 takes you back to a time set against Patiala’s Baradari Palace, where floor-grazing shararas and draped silk satin odhanis worn by royal families are staples.
Tracing history
“Heer draws from vintage handloom and textiles in Varanasi silk featuring motifs that gain meaning through history, culture and context,” says the Delhi-based designer. “Leaves of the neem tree, geometric lattices and floral trellises add weightless ornamentation and are embedded in the richness of mustard yellow, Rani pink, magenta, red, pale pink and Rama green ensembles.” Sanjay says that the challenge was to explore ways in which old vintage archives can still make sense in today’s day and age, and the interesting possibilities in which one can balance both tradition and modernity. A lot of pieces draw inspiration from older pieces, or something a family from the past must’ve worn. “How I wish I knew who they were,” states Sanjay with an air of nostalgia.
Marigolds & motifs
In Heer, one can find knee-length kurtas, brocade saris, shawls, odhanis and more — all that is woven in Varanasi. In rich blues and golds, you can find the Amoha blouse. Sagana odhani and Sanmi lehenga while the Ruhi blouse, Marigold sari and Neer sari is a blend of golds and red. Then there’s the Daman sharara, which is ethereal and almost resembles a pink cotton candy. In case you’re wondering, yes the saris are perfect for summer. Even though you can dress-up these saris with a rich brocade blouse, you can also wear them with cotton blouses, crop tops or layer them with a jacket, if you’re in a cold place.
Today and tomorrow. At Amethyst.
Starting at ` 15,000 .