Mumbai designer Sangeeta Kilachand’s strongest inspirations come from the intricate Marodi embroidery of the Kutch Bhuj regions of Gujarat. The designs etched in handmade gold thread on luxurious fabrics, draw a perfect juxtaposition between the old world charm and new age royalty. The rich embroideries and delicate silhouettes speak of a bygone era and have been worn by many a celebrity including Malaika Arora, Swara Bhaskar, Juhi Chawla, Jaya Bachchan, Tina, Isha and Shloka Ambani. We spoke with the busy couturier about her latest collection Noor and more. Excerpts:
Tell us about your latest couture collection?
Currently, we are focusing on more dressy but easy to wear couture due to the pandemic. My inspiration has always been the royal and rich hand embroidery and techniques of India, especially, the beautiful Marodi embroidery. We use regal fabrics like gajji silk, bandhani, georgette and brocade. Kali cuts are our expertise. This edit has vibrant colours made with natural vegetable dye and the silhouettes mainly include the royal looking abhas, ijars, lehengas, kotis and saris. Easy flowy fabrics in vibrant colours will rule the summer wardrobe.
What will be in this season for a summer wedding?
For summer, the trend will be not too heavy but light colours — flowy and elegant look. Bandhani, leheriya, banarasi, patola and chikankari is back in fashion and trending right now.
What kind of accessories can one go for with summer outfits?
With my abhas, the neck, sleeves and the daman are fully embroidered so except for a long pair of earrings, nothing really is required, the ijar (pants) also have embroidery on it.
You work around Marodi embroidery. Do you plan to explore other regional embroideries?
Of course, my passion is Marodi, but I love experimenting too and right now, I am focusing on Lucknawi Chikankari with Marodi embroidery, Ek taar hand Resham embroidery and French petit point embroidery on bandhanis.
What is the biggest fashion faux pas?
Ill-fitted clothes are the biggest fashion faux pas.
Many have worn your designs, any particular celebrity whom you would love to dress?
Oh yes, Sonam Kapoor, Kareena Kapoor Khan and Madhuri Dixit Nene.
What are the summer wardrobe essentials?
A white satin shirt that can be worn with any lehenga or jacket, Lucknowi kurta, a white linen shirt, shades, palazzo pants, kaftans, printed cotton dresses with chiffon sleeves and cotton shararas. Indian wear for summer should be easy-to-wear light outfits with minimal embroidery.
Your fashion advice for 2021?
Be comfortable in your skin. Buy MadeIn-India products, support locals and invest in sustainable clothing and accessories. Wear light and comfortable clothes and remember that less is more.
Available online. Price on request.
sharmishtha.g@newindianexpress.com
@sharmidas