Urvashi Kaur’s Tessellate pays homage to architect Le Corbusier’s masterpiece, The Tower of Shadows

Urvashi Kaur’s Tessellate pays homage to architect Le Corbusier’s masterpiece, The Tower of Shadows

The collection reflects the interplay of light and shadow that the building is known for

Structure is not typically part of the Urvashi Kaur design vocabulary. So when the couturier, known for her gauzy tunics, wispy overlays and slouchy trousers, took on the task of creating a collection inspired by The Tower of Shadows, the chef d’oeuvre of renowned Modernist architect Le Corbusier, it was an interesting challenge indeed — one where the fluid and the structured had to be married to arrive at something fresh and innovative. “Ahead of its time, the structure dates back to the 1950s and finds relevance in the modern world. It’s minimalism inspires us to create for longevity and embrace the beautiful restraints of living with less. From proportion to perspective, from texture to structure, we have pushed our artistry in a newer, minimal direction,” begins the seasoned Delhi-based designer.

Titled Tessellate, the new collection is the coming together of sharp angles and bold colour blocking on her signature relaxed, layered silhouettes. There is liberal use of stripes, hand-block prints, printed checks and dots. The lines and shapes represent the unusual design of the building which was constructed to study the solar movement. Urvashi also borrows from the tower’s colour palette. Think shades of grey, brown, and ecru. Dashes of red and blue serve to break the starkness. “Conceptualising is an on-going process. I’m constantly influenced by nature, geometry, artwork, music and architecture. These are reflected in the various textures, forms and layered silhouettes that I create. While (for Tessellate) the planning, ideation, textile research and rendering took months to come to life, creating the final collection took about three weeks,” she shares, and adds, “Tessellate is a beautiful interpretation of the collision between fashion and architecture. Its outcome gives rise to an impressive juxtaposition of structures, layers and forms.”

The drop, whose campaign was also shot at the building in Chandigarh, sees the use of naturally-dyed and hand-spun cotton jamdani, Chanderi, khadi, mulberry silk, linen-cotton and khes, a fabric made from coarse cotton yarn, which is traditionally used to create light blankets. 

Versatility is the hallmark of every Urvashi Kaur piece and this new edit is no exception. “Techniques such as micro-pleating, kantha stitches and block print-ing give life to this collection,” she explains. It comprises oversized outer-wear, androgynous dresses and shirt dresses, in addition to relaxed and sheer trousers, light saris and unstructured pleated skirts. The tailored garments are a mix of sheer and opaque — signifying the interplay of light and shadow that Urvashi was keen on capturing. “One of our biggest challenges this time was to get permission to shoot at the location. After days of excessive follow ups, we were finally able to shoot there. Furthermore, we had conceptualised a play of light and shadow as the structure was designed to study the solar movement. However, upon our arrival, the sky was completely overcast and we waited for the weather to clear up. The delay caused time constraints but we eventually executed the shoot as planned,” recalls the designer. 

It’s barely five days since the launch of the collection at Bougainvillea Gallery, Ahmedabad, but Urvashi is already looking forward to her next drop — a resort wear line, aside from the opening of her flagship store in Gurgaon, and the official launch of her online store. “Additionally, the brand has been focusing on collaborations and on supporting creators to produce finer work,” she says, before signing off. 

Rs.6,000 upwards. Tessellate will be available online soon.

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