Couturier Abhishek Ray has always aced it like a pro when it comes to very gorgeous well-designed ethnic ensembles with a touch of fusion. Be it flowy lightweight lehengas, traditional kurtis with handstitched eloquent sequins and embroideries or elegant saris, in vibrant shades or an equally exquisite range of menswear, Ray's outfits are all exquisite in their nuanced detailings.
This year too the Abhishek Ray Festive edit has all his signature motifs and comprises traditional ethnic and Indo-Western silhouettes like peplum kurtas, trendy saris and lehengas. "While dressing for the festive season this year the mantra should be minimalism. One mustn't forget that less is always more. I have kept a very wide colour palette that covers sophisticated pastel tones of pinks and peahces to timeless neutral shades of black, white and beige, and bright Indian colours like red, orange, yellow, fuschia. To capture the spirit of the festive season adequately, I have mostly used georgette, chiffon and chanderi fabrics with an overdose of organza, which definitely is the flavour of the season," says Abhishek, who feels that people will push all fashion boundaries and tend towards overdoing things this Diwali after a long period of pandemic-induced reticence.
The line-up offers a wide choice of lehengas, saris and Indo-western outfits like peplum suits with shararas, kaftans and comfortable coords in all kind of colours. The menswear too has a varied range in basic Indian ethnic silhouettes comprising kurta sets, Nehru jackets and Pathani salwars in khadi-linen, chanderi and raw silk.
Abhishek also takes a quick note of the changing sartorial preferences. "People have become more price-conscious and value for money is more important now than luxury buying. Keeping this in mind I too have curated my festive collection in such a way that the garments look pretty and colourful with a hint of bling but don’t burn a hole in your pocket," he explains.
This Diwali, Abhishek feels the backless short cholis have been replaced for a change by peplum tops and long jackets. "With a thrust on responsible fashion, people are now utilising their old outfits and recycling their clothes to turn their wardrobes more sustainable. My design philosophy too this time has been based more on affordable fashion hence I have laid a lot of stress on separates like palazzos, kurtas and dupattas that people can buy and mix and match with their existing outfits," shares the designer, whose label is known for its signature zardosi work in antique gold and threadwork.
Abhishek feels that the festive wardrobe must-haves for women of any range must consist of a beautiful handwoven silk sari, be it a Benarasi, a kanjeevaram, a pochhampally or a baluchari, two-three simple and plain kalidaar kurtas in neutral shades like beige, ivory, olive or black which can be teamed up with any vibrant dupatta and different accessories. "One should also possess a statement clutch or potli bag in metallic silver or gold," he adds.
"It's been 8 years since the launch of the label and over time, my brand's style statement has become more muted, understated and subtle. I have toned down on the play of colours. Also, our menswear which I launched midway in 2019 is getting bigger with time," he adds.
Currently, Abhishek is working on his upcoming Winter/Festive Bridal line which will have a trendy twist to it. "I will employ a lot of unconventional colour combinations with trendy silhouettes and traditional embroideries which will fuse together in a beautiful melange of designs for both men and women," he reveals. Expect some very unusually chic long bridal jackets and velvet palazzos, embroidered cholis with transparent kalidars and heavy lehengas in reds, maroons, oranges and fuschia. The menswear will see plain textured kurtas with heavily embroidered shawls in pure raw silk and muted tones of bottle green, wine, chocolate brown and beige.
We try four looks from his creations on the very effervescent actress Susmita Chatterjee for our Diwali special cover issue.
Price on request. At 7D/1, Anil Maitra Road. Instagram: @abhishekraycreations
Slay it like Susmita
Strap: The stunning actress with a million-watt smile, Susmita Chatterjee shares her Diwali fashion choices with us
Diwali sartorial choices: For me, festive wear has to be very glamorous and elegant. For any festive occasions like pujas and weddings, I always go for sophisticated and gorgeous saris and lehengas and I like pairing them with heavy jewelleries, especially chunky earrings. I also like to add a bit of drama with kohled eyes and fresh jasmine gajras on my hair bun. Nothing can beat a well-done ethnic look during such occasions. And before stepping out, I never forget to complete the ensemble with an equally gorgeous pair of shoes.
Fashion choices: For everyday wear, I love wearing a lot of denim and shorts with t-shirts and casual dresses. I prefer colours in my life, so, my wardrobe has all the bright colours. I always like to experiment with my looks and I love trying something unique all the time but I don't like following trends blindly. Among accessories, I am crazy about shoes, handbags, perfumes and oxidised silver jewellery.
Diwali buys: Diwali is special in many ways and I go all out for shopping on the auspicious occasion of Dhanteras besides shopping for a few elegant ethnic attires. I love rings and this year too I will be buying one statement ring. I also buy a lot of colourful lights, diyas and candles to light up my home.
Diwali food: I am a total foodie and during Diwali I always make it a point to stuff myself with the choicest homemade Diwali sweets like laddus, barfis and pedhas.
Upcoming projects: Currently, I am filming for the Bengali film Chengiz with actor Jeet and I am very excited about the same. There are other projects lined up too but I cannot talk about them before they are announced. There are four films of mine that are waiting for release including Arindam Sil's Khela Jokhon.
CREDITS
PICS: Siladitya Dutta, assisted by Bipradip Chakraborty / Hair and makeup: Abhijit Paul, assisted by Sananda Mondal Laha / Styling: Poulami Gupta / Location courtesy: Raajkutir, Kolkata IHCL SeleQtions / Food courtesy: House of Royals