Vibrant joyful colours, authentic weaves and exquisite hand embroideries – this is what defines Debaroopa Bhattacharyya’s label Ummaira’s festive edit OYA – The Winds of Change.
A look at the collection and we were impressed by the interplay of different shades of vivid pops and pastels in both solid and ombre versions; pastels besides the monochromes black and white which are accentuated by striking tones of neon pinks and greens.
“The sari always bears the potential of complementing any body shape be it slender frames or curvier ones. The silhouettes in our OYA edit include A-Line, ball gown, empire waist and mermaid shapes to create a dramatic look for the traditional festivities, cocktail evenings and Bijoya parties. Fresh, glamorous, contemporary, sensational and yet easy to carry off, our festive saris come in georgette, silks, organza, linen, net, tussar and matka,” tells Debaroopa, designer-founder of the label.
Since the last two years have been marred by the fateful pandemic, this year people are on a celebration overdrive and that is also reflected in their buying pattern. To keep in line with the prevailing upbeat mood, Debaroopa has drawn inspiration from many moods of celebration that surround the festivities for this collection.
“Joy, colours and euphoria are the key emotions we had in mind while creating this Puja line-up which encompasses both traditional ensembles and creative silhouettes,” she tells us.
Likewise, the edit OYA -- which is the name for the African Goddess of change -- is a tribute to the ever-evolving woman and her sensibilities in the post-pandemic world. And to capture her emotions right, there are traditional garod, katan and tangail besides the exquisite flowy handlooms and linens which you can easily pair with a noodle strap blouse for a cocktail night.
What we find interesting in the collection is the intelligent way in which Debaroopa has used pop tones and pastel hues in a variety of silhouettes and in fabrics which compliment different contours. The motifs and patterns too allude to the new-age liberal lifestyle, shorn of ostentatious elements.
Debaroopa feels that this Puja it’s all about thematic saris and painted or embroidered silks and tussars besides embroidered georgette or net numbers.
“For those looking for a little dressing-up at nights, they can go for a little heavy embroidery and zardozi elements on georgette or net. We also have drape saris for the younger crowd in metallic colours, flowy chiffons and lycras,” she elaborates.
Since silks and tussars never go out of style, there is an exhaustive range of those too including Kanjivaram, Gadwal, Muga, Paat, Paithanis, Chanderi, Mulberry, Mangalgiri, Maheshwari and Resham.
Nearly two-year-old, Ummaira has earned renown for coming up with original designs but also standing by the indigenous weavers who are mostly women. “We are all for responsible fashion and in the post-pandemic world it’s our priority to re-engage our weavers, embroiderers, painters and seamstresses in creating fashion that is sustainable, yet aesthetic and wearable,” stresses Debaroopa.
Be it the label’s choice of raw materials or methods of execution, there’s an ethical and responsible touch to it. To manage fabric waste, Debaroopa has come up with a whole new upcycled line of sari jackets in cotton, linen, silk and tussar, which will soon be on racks.
Currently, the gritty designer is working on their winter wedding collection where she intends to display some intricate designs on niche fabrics like Baluchari, Chanderi, Assam Silk Paat and Sonamukhi Bishnupur Katan apart from Benaras Katan Silk and Tussar Benarasi. “The indigenous weaves will showcase handcrafted embroidery and zardosi work by our Bengal karigars,” signs off the designer.
Here are four looks from OYO that beautiful actor Amrita Chatterjee chose to flaunt for our festive special shoot.
Price on request. Available at P104 Lake Terrace. On ummaira.com
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A diva’s diary
Actor Amrita Chatterjee loves to channel the inner quirk through simple and elegant silhouettes and prefers well-tailored outfits to prêt-e-porter. The very beautiful actress, who has made her presence felt in the film The Holy Conspiracy alongside stalwarts like the late Soumitra Chatterjee and Naseeruddin Shah, shares her fashion choices with us.
Festive fashion choices: I prefer Indian wear and ethnic clothes over western outfits which we wear most of the time of the year. My preferred outfits include salwars, cotton lehengas and, of course, saris. I love wearing different kinds of saris for all the five days of the Pujas, mostly handwoven, handspun ones. I cannot resist tussar saris and Bengal handlooms.
When it comes to accessories, I am obsessed with silver and I have a huge collection of pure silver bijoux. Also since I am allergic to nickel and other metals, at times, I prefer pure copper or pure brass jewellery too. I have a thing for glass bangles and my current obsession is with pure silver bangles.
How I spend the Pujas: When I was a kid I used to travel to my ancestral home around Saptami and spend the rest of the Pujas with my grandparents and cousins. But now, I spent Pujas here only with just friends and family. This year too, it would be the same. Often there are a few special invites from news channels for Puja addas and I thoroughly enjoy them too.
I also visit my neighbourhood pandal for Anjali.
Puja buys: Already my mom has bought a beautiful kalidar Lucknowi chikan salwar for me and a few very beautiful saris. But shopping isn’t over yet and I will invariably buy some more clothes and definitely some silver jewellery before the Pujas ensue.
What I like about the Pujas: I love almost everything about the Pujas, except the excessive crowd. The colour of the sky, the smell in the air, the bright sunlight, the sound of dhaak, kaashphul, blooming lotuses, bhog, Arati and -- I love it all.
Puja is a weird mix of so many emotions, so many memories and so many firsts. So much of our life revolves around Pujas still. And holistically a large part of our society’s economy revolves around Pujas -- so many small industries depend on it and we so look forward to these five days with so much anticipation throughout the year.
1CREDITS: Pictures: Debarshi Sarkar / Hair and Makeup: Abhijit Paul / Assisted by: Sananda Mondal Laha / Styling: Poulami Gupta / Blouses: Poulami Gupta and V-Cut / Jewellery: Avama Jewellers, Indian Gem and Jewellery creation, Aadikara / Location courtesy: JW Marriott Kolkata