The six-yard of graceful silhouette sings spring medleys in the most entrancing avatar in Hyderabad-based designer Saurav Das’ new sari collection Vasant. This limited edition brings lustrous handwoven saris in shimmery fabrics like silver gauze, zari tissue and silk organza paired with sensuous bodices with miniature art-inspired detailing. The edit is shot at a 350-year-old Bapu Ghat step-well from the Asaf Jahi dynasty on the outskirts of Hyderabad. The antiquated site accentuated the drama of the dreamy falls, making it look like a moving medieval-era painting — proving Saurav’s mastery of storytelling.
The Bengali designer, raised in Assam and now based in The City of Pearls, has previously worked for mavens like Sabyasachi, Shravan Ramaswamy and Gaurang Shah. With them, combined with his deep passion for textiles, he revived the age-old weaves like Patka, Charkhanas, Konia implementation, Kadhuan and Lacha in his journey while staying ahead of trends with evergreen collections. With Vasant, recently showcased at Chola Sheraton in Chennai, Saurav plans to take the edit to pop-ups in Hyderabad, Bengaluru and Delhi. We speak to the textile designer on this beautiful spring edit, an enduring love for saris and more.
What’s the inspiration behind Vasant?
It’s the nostalgic approach and finding possibilities of newness within the tradition. When it has to resonate with spring (vasant), I always think of lotuses and water bodies — the visualisation itself blooms freshness and novelty in memory. I wanted to experience the sheerness of my zari tissue collection in such a location which adds fluidity and a certain rhythm to the whole idea, thus, I tried creating a lotus pond artificially in a restored old step-well.
Tell us about the design process and how the art of the medieval era inspired you.
The designing starts with visual research, theoretical research, reading textile journals and looking at previous works on particular traditions. I also visit the craft clusters in person to understand the nuances of the craft at its grassroots level to approach it in my unique way. In this very collection, I have used fine counts of treated zari which are softened using a secretive softening inhouse dying recipe, which is then twisted with fine count kora yarns and woven in a pit handloom by skilled weavers in the outskirts of Indore. The technique creates sheer tactile surfaces of tissues, which were very popular in the bygone era amongst the noble class. I’ve worked with the traditional handloom weavers of Benaras and Maheshwar for Vasant. My zaris are procured from a traditional Patua family of Benaras who has a tradition of making these hand-beaten threads from the last seven generations. Medieval inspiration is an organic process. The tactility of the old archival pieces has always motivated me to recreate those breathable bygone masterpieces. Then, I have always seen my grandmother wearing some of the finest muslins and exclusive weaves which she had inherited from her in-laws and her paternal side who were ‘bonedis’ from Chittagong. All the stories within the family and the archives of the heirlooms had a huge impact on me to work on revival initiatives. We see a lot of gold and silver gauze which makes it look glamourous.
What was the intent behind using resplendent colours?
Yes, the gold and zari textures are indeed very glamourous! They have been in use since time immemorial, like, brocade weaving traditions reached their zenith during the Mughal era. However, we can trace fragments of zari weaving in the museum archives of even 2nd century textiles.Vedas also mention certain terms for gold gauze textiles like Hiranya Drapi (drape of gold) Hiranya Pesa (gold embroidery) and more. Just like gold is mentioned as Hiranya, we have silver known as Raupya in historical texts. I have always been fascinated by reading about their history. Mythology has also inspired me to imagine the characters of epic stories in such royal textiles.
Does sari hold a broader meaning for you as a designer?
To me, sari is symbolic of infinity, fluidity and a running drape of elegance and cultural integrity. It’s one of those iconic garments of the motherland which binds the whole country in the most democratic fabric. It tells us stories from our past and connects our present with its roots. It’s timeless, ageless and the most versatile garment, revealing just how much has to be covered. As a designer and craft enthusiast of the present generation, I feel it’s a responsibility to carry its legacy forward.
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