Myriad embroideries and ethnic silhouettes dominate Payal Pratap’s new collection

She is not the flower child of the 1960s, but Payal Pratap's new collection is coming up roses and quite literally

Trust Payal Pratap to find inspiration from a song for her latest Spring Summer collection. But this isn’t the first time the New Delhi-based designer has found her muse in the form of a verse. Remember her SS ’16 collection Vintage Rose that reinterpreted the era of the ’50s and Robert Frost’s poem Asking for Roses? For her latest collection titled Twist In My Sobriety (like the 1988 British pop hit by Tanita Tikaram), the designer returns to her signature surface detailing — the geometric cross stitch embroidery as digital and graphic prints, in a line that consists of cropped boleros, peplum jackets, jumpsuits, tops and maxi dresses. “The collection is a collage of different embroidery techniques. The cross stitch, of course, which I love and other techniques like the craft stitches or embroidery stitch detail,” the NIFT graduate says.

Drape story

The collection that primarily focuses on structure and texture has a pronounced Indian leaning with draped silhouettes and pleat detailing taking form as sari drape dresses and waist gathers in the line’s range of maxi dresses. “The sari drape dress is my favourite piece from this collection. It’s a new take on the sari, comfortable yet making a strong statement.” Conceptualised for the contemporary globetrotting woman, the collection also includes fit and flare cuts besides fluid silhouettes.

Bed of roses

Characterised by the use of a vibrant meets neutral colour palette, Twist In My Sobriety stays true to Payal Pratap design aesthetic by featuring shades of teal blue, bordeaux, sandalwood and ivory. “Layering is key to the collection, either as a combination of geometric and patchwork prints or embroidery on a solid colour background or as apparel,” she shares. Typical of the designer, the collection is also marked by chintz rose patterns that are recurrent through the line. “ This collection was also a progression of my romance with the rose. The floral fraternity is a dear friend,” she says with a laugh, adding, “My future collections will showcase hydrangeas, berry flowers.” The only detail the 44-year-old designer lets slip on her upcoming collection.

The collection that features over 30 garments is available in handwoven fabrics like linen, cotton, silk, khadi and chanderi. `14,500 onwards. Details:

At Collage, Greams Road. Details: 28291443.

— Rebecca Vargese @rebecca_vargese

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