Shades of fallen flowers: Dev r Nil's tribute to the Kashmir valley
Designers Debarghya Bairagi and Navonil Das showcase their latest collection The Valley of Missing Flowers at Evoluzione
Soft shades of ecru, grey, and muted greens in contrast to hints of midnight blue, reds, mingle with military stripes and dominate Dev r Nil’s latest collection, The Valley of Missing Flowers. The 21-piece collection that debuted at the Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/ Resort ’17 edition is now set to retail as a diffusion line and prêt pieces at Evoluzione starting today. Inspired by Bharat Sikka’s series of pictures on the Kashmir Valley, the line has metallic zari embroidery and prints that mimic fallen petals and leaves on silk, khadi cotton, linen, organza—and is suggestive of a dystopian subtext.
Following their absence from LFW for nine years, the panache with which they executed their return to the ramp grabbed attention. Showcasing a line that deals with a rather volatile subject, the duo touched upon the war-torn landscape through their imagery. “We were treading a very thin line with this collection and did not want to make it seem like we were making light of the situation. For us, fashion is a lot like art. Each of our collections is connected to a certain state of mind that is contemporary,” says Nil. Known for their play of geometric shapes, the collection features ikat texture prints transposed on the shape of a peacock feather, 3D applique work and ‘the missing flower print’ that Nil describes as ‘petals that look like they have been erased’.
Easy does it
With basic silhouettes in play, expect to find a range of kurtas, crop tops, trousers, capes, and striped saris with bomber jackets. “The collection at Evoluzione will include simpler versions of their fashion week line, where heavy embroidery is replaced with printed replicas,” says the Kolkata-based designer. While the installation at the LFW did not feature a show-stopper, one standout piece from the collection is a gown that the designers made for transgender model Anjali Lama. “It was our first structured gown. Made of organza silk, the garment is primarily print-based with petal embroidery on the bust and has a deep v-neck,” he explains.
While their collection was showcased at the Amazon Fashion Week late last week, Dev and Nil aren’t about to take a break. With an Autumn/Winter collection on the cards, they are looking to diversify into home linens like minimalistic sheer curtains. “We will also continue with our wedding collection and expand our men’s wear line,” adds Nil.
`5,550. At Evoluzione.