Payal Khandwala unveils part one of her trilogy Autumn/Winter collection

Abstract expressionism and impressionist colour theory are at the core of Payal Khandwala’s first full-fledged sari collection

Rebecca Vargese Published :  08th September 2017 06:00 AM   |   Published :   |  08th September 2017 06:00 AM
Payal Khandwala collection

Payal Khandwala collection

When designer Payal Khandwala tells you that her Autumn/Winter collection’ 17, Indessential, is part of a trilogy which will be unveiled over the course of the coming months, you know you can expect a line of luxury silk apparel in her signature jewel tone palette — coffee, crimson, citrine, indigo and mehendi green. The 43-year-old, who has experimented with the quintessential Indian drape since Lakmé Fashion Week Autumn/ Winter ’13 and Spring/Summer ’14, finally unveiled an extensive range of saris and little saris as part of her Autumn/Winter ’17 line over the last week of August. Having teased her followers on social media with throwback pictures of her sari designs over the last month, the designer’s trilogy collection will also include a range of Indian wardrobe essentials like kurtas and ethnic skirts among others.

Earn your stripes

Featuring stripes as it’s predominant motif, the Parson School of Design graduate explains that things aren’t quite what they seem. “Calling them stripes simplifies the design aesthetics to a great extent.” The collection which is a repetition of lines, thick and thin borrows heavily from Barnett Newman’s oil paintings and impressionist art’s colour theory. “Barnett had a minimalist approach to large colour fields which he interrupted by lines (he called zips). This divided and united the canvas at the same time. The varying degree of thickness of the lines come from my interpretation of impressionist colour theory, where extreme values in colour (dark and light) affect the ability of how the colour is read and gives the impression of a third colour.” The thickness of the lines ranges from 2mm to strokes that resemble colour blocks.

Perfect little world

Indessential, that includes a collection of full-length saris and a range of little saris aims at working as transition line —work to dinner wear. “Our sari wearing customers have been the most neglected so far. They have only had a handful designs to choose from. Besides being a transition collection, the range is about making the sari a part of our day-to- day-wardrobe.“ Hinged on styling, Payal Khandwala suggests that the collection be paired with trousers, palazzos, shirts, or basic t-shirts. “Sometimes pleating a full-length sari is a little intimidating. The little sari makes the apparel more approachable and versatile. The length of the saris have been shortened to make ‘little’ saris and can be paired up with closet staples like culottes, jeans, crop tops or a jacket.” The collection includes a range of 30 saris made of silk, silk twill and skill with linen developed at the weaving cluster of Phulia in West Bengal. Expect to see the same fabrics continue into the eponymous label’s festive collection and prêt line as well.

Rs 10,000 onwards for the Little saris and 16,000 onwards for full-length saris. Details: