After five days of high fashion and glamour, LFW has managed to make a 360-degree turn on our understanding of contemporary wear. While we see the return of some classics such as the bralette, designs like the drape suit appears to be a breath of fresh air in a market dominated by lehengas and the like. Read on to know more about our favourites of the season.
Flaunt it
Move over crop top, as your sexy replacement has just arrived! A constant across shows at the Summer/Resort edition, the bralette is here to stay. We particularly like the denim iteration of this style by Delhi-based designer Ragini Ahuja’s contemporary label, Ikai. Be sure to check out Payal Singhal’s take on the same, if you’re on the lookout for a glammed-up version.
Nude mandate
Anamika Khanna’s interpretation of the nude shade is all about whimsy. By creating the garments with traditional zardosi work and textured fabrics, the Delhi-based designer presented out-of-the-box designs such as skirts with cowl detailing.
Go Boho
Moving away from the staples found within boho-inspired silhouettes, Anjali Patel Mehta’s Verandah concentrates on desi motifs and unique silhouettes. Enhanced with graphic prints of chattri (dome), tigers, and floral prints, the line is dedicated to the Ranthambore tiger. It also inspired the colour palette sporting eclectic hues like orange-mustard, red, yellow, and green.
Street smart
A desi version of streetwear, Amit Wadhwa’s groundbreaking collection showcased unique designs such as inverted box-pleated trousers, and reversible shirts with optional cloth belts. Crafted in soft khadi and mulmul, the Delhi-based designer’s monochrome line featured a pastel colour palette and unstructured looks.
Bling on
Palazzos have occupied a permanent spot in our summer wardrobes for reasons including comfort. Shweta Kapur’s 431-88 decided to glam up the humble palazzo for the season by adding some bling. Her ‘Collection 11’ had a new interpretation of the metallic trend using gold, silver, and chrome-infused ensembles, enhanced with shiny tassels, pleated fabrics (think satin lycra), and foil printing.
Suit up
Draped suits have managed to capture the imagination of Indian designers for all the right reasons this season. While there have been many good variations of the design from several segments, we loved this white-on-white look from Nancy Luharuwalla’s Gujarat-based Label De Belle, which paired dhoti pants with a full sleeve shirt and an embroidered dupatta.
NEW IN THE HOOD
Here’s everything you need to know about the four promising debutantes on our radar this Summer
The Good Loom
Rooted in India’s rich textile heritage, this brand-new label’s creations highlight traditional weaves such as Ilkal and Chettinadu saris. While the women’s segment featured feather-light chanderi weaves, Bengaluru-based Goodloom’s menswear paired ready-to-wear khadi and cotton separates with vibrant stoles. Brought out by GoCoop, a national award-winning e-commerce platform dedicated to handwoven clothes, Good Loom is all set to win over India’s sustainability enthusiasts.
Ashwini Reddy
We love ruffles and absolutely adore cold shoulders. First-timer Ashwini Reddy’s showstopper outfit, donned by actor Tamanna Bhatia, was able to meet us midway with a combination of the two. Titled Tilottama, the Hyderabad-based designer’s silk-intensive floral line highlighted Indian silhouettes in kaleidoscopic colours (think ivory and blue). The embroideries showcased in the collection include flat pita work.
Half Full Curve
Familiar to fashionistas through her eclectic label named Quirk Box, Rixi Bhatia’s latest endeavour in association with her sister is a tribute to the ‘Body Positivity’ movement. Freckled with wildflower motifs, the ensemble featured a range of draped lungi-style skirts with jackets and cowl kurtas in pure georgette, chanderi, and dupion silks.
Aikeyah
Delhi-based Aikeyah is our new favourite as far as sheer garments go. A play on textures and cutwork, Aikeyah’s dramatic line is all about exquisite lace patterns and understated elegance. Titled Yin and Yang, the six-year-old endeavour’s collection combined black and white hues using embellishments like oversized lace bows and tasseled jackets.
Make way for men!
In 2017, Falguni and Shane Peacock charmed us with their return to the Indian ramp after a long break. This year, the womenswear label has come out with its first ever menswear collection titled ‘The Louche’, highlighting quirky items such as disco sportswear suits, graphic silk bombers, and biker jackets in millennial pink.
GIVING BACK
Usha Silai is the rural empowerment project that India’s been waiting for
Taking sustainability a step forward, LFW’s collaboration with Usha International has paved way for the launch of Usha Silai, which showcases works by rural women artisans. Having united its distinct artisan clusters under the mentorship of Lakme’s fine lineup of designers, the project showcased four unique collections.
An attempt at reinterpreting the classic theme of black and white, Ahmedabad-based designer Soham Dave’s collaboration with the Dholka cluster resulted in The Black Machine. A game changer for all intents and purposes, the line presented silhouettes such as sack dresses and double shaded kurtas combined with flared midi skirts.
Traditional designs emerged in brand-new avatars and iterations through Amit Vijaya and Richard Pandav’s vibrant line named Rani’sthan. Created in association with the Kaladhera cluster, the ensemble presents deconstructed modern-day wear that draws inspiration from ethnic staples including lehengas and poshaks.
‘The Girl from the Pages of the Diary’ skillfully merges batik prints with khadi and linen blends, notably the personal favourites of Kolkata-based Sayantan Sarkar. Having associated with West Bengal-based 24 South Parganas for the collection, Sayantan’s work leans toward the rustic way of doing things, with pieces such as draped trousers.
An ode to pintucks, 3D appliques, and box pleats, Sreejith Jeevan’s line of chic clothes made in partnership with Usha’s Puducherry cluster celebrates the majestic windows of the coastal town. “Basic seams, finishes, hems, techniques, etc, were taught to the women first and then we started with a design workshop for them to see how they could use these in clothes. I took it one step further in each stage, moving from technique exploration to swatch development to garment samples,” says Sreejith.
NorthEast Calling
Sonam Dubal x Assam
The Majuli collection presented by Sonam Dubal’s 15-year-old label is yet another one of his sartorial tributes to India’s Buddhist heritage. A connoisseur of fibres such as eri and wool, Sonam’s dori and woodwork embellished designs are layered pieces that can be worn together or separately. Apart from textured weaves such as gamcha and moga silk, Sonam’s outfits also featured cotton elements with hints of ikat.
Daniel Syiem x Meghalaya
“My focus is on reviving Ryndia, our heritage fabric, by infusing a touch of modernity,” shares Daniel Syiem, who has returned to LFW for the third time. Presented in an earthy colour palette, Daniel’s organic range of clothes are embellished with quirky items such as pine cones. Quadruple collars, drop shoulders, and curved hemlines are some of the interesting details showcased by Daniel this time.
Richana Khumanthem x Manipur
Dotted with golden bird motifs, Richana Khumanthem’s handloom collection upholds the nude palette trend. “Titled Anemoia, the SS18 collection is based on my experiences related to the stories and myths surrounding traditional textiles,” she explains. Apart from pieces in pure cotton such the ivory jumpsuit look, the show also highlighted tunics and kaftans, freckled with quirky motifs inspired by the Meitei community in Manipur.
Aratrik Dev Varman x Tripura
A confluence of sheer fabrics like Chanderi and mulmul, this NID alumnus’ Summer line is based on the woven breast clothes used by tribal women in Tripura. “The fact that we have such great diversity of structures and patterns makes it a wellspring for new ideas but the challenge is to retain uniqueness,” notes Aratrik Dev Varman, who went on to create gowns and drop-waist dresses using woven strips and panels that are hand- joined together.
Karma Sonam x Sikkim
Lepcha, one of the oldest weaving techniques of the country takes centrestage through Karma Sonam’s clothes, made of 100 per cent natural fibres. Sporting elements borrowed from the dressing style of Bhutia and Lepcha tribes in the region, her eponymous label, Kuzhu, showcased designs like cropped jackets. Made with materials such as nettle and merino wool, the outfits featured wrap pants and kimono style blouses.
Jenjum Gadi x Nagaland
To mark his return to the platform after a gap of 10 years, Jenjum Gadi coordinated with Nagaland’s Exotic Echo Society to produce loin-loom clothes, woven using the backstrap method. Unisex in nature, the line celebrates tassels and fringes that are tastefully integrated with natural-dyed cotton materials. Knee-length hoodies and floppy waistcoats where the unique offerings Jenjum brought to the forefront this season.