From Beypore to Bahia, mussels are considered a delicacy—especially when they’re freshly shucked and cooked in coconut milk, chillies, and turmeric. But, this near-obsessive love for seafood isn’t the only common link between the palates of Brasileiros and Malayalis. Restauranteur, Junaid Akbar, opened Coco Cabana Café at Pathadipalam (opposite Metro Pillar #330) to shed light on this culinary connection.
Despite being hemispheres apart, centuries of Portuguese colonisation has created an intangible connection between Brazil and Kerala. This extends way beyond the everyday use of ingredients like tapioca, papaya, red meat, beans, or okra,” begins the 23-year-old, handing me a chilled tender coconut juice served in a karikku.
Flavour fiesta
The conversation, which started with football, soon veers into an excited exchange of other (more
delicious) linkages, despite the 13,000 km gap. Here’s one: While folks in São Paulo turn cassava into
pudding, we mash it up with shallots and green chillies. “Connoisseurs in the city may have sampled Brazilian fare at Crowne Plaza’s quadrennial food festival (usually prior to every FIFA World Cup), but as far as I know, such preparations have not surfaced on any regional restaurant’s menu. Either way, to elevate our gastronomic offerings we focus on Brazilian-Mexican fusion food,” he claims.
As if on cue, their signature entree arrives on my table: tapioca cabana. An excellent twist on turmeric-infused boiled kappa, as it comes blended with a gooey cheddar-mozzarella sauce, served beside shredded beef tossed in a ‘cumin-garlic-chipotlesque’ marinade. Though proportioned for sharing, this dish served on an impractical hollowed-out bamboo piece reminds me of the hilarious Twitter handle @WeWantPlates.
Tropical gastronomie
Everything from the quirky cutlery to the semi-casual décor at this 53-cover diner seems to emit a very easy-going vibe. As I lounge around in a neo-modern chair with a blue curacao mojito mocktail in hand, the friendly wait-staff place Junaid’s take on coxinhas: Usually, a crisp chicken croquette sitting atop a medley of spring vegetables.
However, their Brazilian ‘exploder’ is a huge broasted chicken breast that’s stuffed with a mixture of multiple kinds of cheese and bell peppers. Thoroughly marinated, each bite is a forkful of flavour; quadrupled, if dipped in their sweet-tangy pico de gallo (tomato salsa).
While unique servings like a ‘flight meal’—a platter representing everything one would normally find on a luxury airliner’s on-flight menu—makes an appearance on their spread, it isn’t all Brazilian-Mexican. “Some continental dishes like pasta are added as their staples here, but we’re adding more tropical specials every month,” cites Junaid, egging us on to try their off-menu dessert; a brilliant blend of tender coconut meat with ice cream and pudding of the same flavour.
Open From11 am to 11 pm.
anoop.p@newindianexpress.com
@godsonlymistake