Kolkata Centre for Creativity’s Grace puts the focus back on local ingredients with its new menu
AT A VENUE like Kolkata Centre for Creativity, it’s quite expected that the culinary fare has a dash of art in it. Interestingly, Chef Ritabrata Biswas’s vision matches the sensibility of the centre for art in the city. We were indeed suitably impressed with the finely curated degustation menu on our recent trip to Grace — Progressive Vegetarian.
Bringing back the focus on local produce, he creates dishes that are modern yet rooted in regional flavours. And all the bites that made it to our table scored on their presentation, local factor and flavour. With a wide smile, the chef presented Nostalgia to us before explaining the whole concept of this amuse-bouche. A mousse prepared with smoked Bandel Cheese, that originated in the former Portuguese colony is topped on the humble baked banana chips. The dash of chat masala praline makes it more inviting piquing our interest in the upcoming lineup. Shorba not a Shorba was served next and the freshness of the tomatoes in the warm soup was palpable in every sip. Cooked overnight, the tanginess of the soup with pulped tomatoes was enhanced with homemade garam masala and coriander and chilli.
The appetiser Bella Noir looking like a dainty red velvet truffle cake on a charcoal tart was made from a mixture of beetroot and coconut seasoned in Indian spices. The coriander spice dust packs new flavour to the neatly presented dish. Bloody Melon, from the mains, gave an impression of a slab of tender meat on the plate. And the deception continued even after we cut the watermelon showing a beautiful pink and dark red hue, similar to that of grilled steak. It’s only when we took a bite that we realised that it’s the juicy fruit, a refresher during summers. Inspired by his mentor, the recipe that involves slow roasting of the watermelon with coriander, orange jus and soya corn syrup, is a tad on the sweeter side. However, the chillis balance the sweetness well.
Giving a regional twist to the popular Italian delicacy risotto, the a romatic Gobindobhog rice of Bengal replaces the Arborio version. The creamy sticky rice is cooked with spices of Madras curry and gorgonzola with some chilli achar oil drizzled on the top.
We completed our meal with Naami, Benami Kheer, presented in perfectly squareshaped crispy bread filled with the lesserk n ow n garlic kheer served with some cranberry puree and pistachio dust.
Price for two: Rs 1,499 ++