A few years ago, a Goan bread maker was making his way home after a disappointing day. Given it was the lockdown, streets were desolate, business was slow and his cart — as discovered by a surprise, last-minute customer at 10 pm — was still packed to the brim with bangle breads (kankonn) and the softer poie baked that morning. “I’ll take 40 pieces,” said his sole customer for the day, who as it turns out was culinary enthusiast, Nolan Mascarenhas. The poder (derived from the Portuguese word for baker padeiro) took a moment, and then courteously responded in his regional tongue, Konkani, “I understand what you are trying to do for me... but, I don’t want to be indebted. How many do you really want?” Nolan picked up his phone and began dialing friends. “Want bread?”
Poder project
Neither knew it at the time, but this brief crossing of paths led to the beginning of The Poder Chronicles — an initiative to take traditional Goan breads, sold streetside at Rs 4 or Rs 5 a piece — from commonplace to celebrated. Held for three years consecutively at the Hilton Goa Resort, as well as at other popular venues such as Antares and Jamming Goat — the idea, we discover, is to serve these everyday breads — that locals have fond childhood memories of, delivered by a poder on a bicycle — and elevate their status with a gourmet twist.
Like Sweet Potato in Balcao cream atop the unndo we tasted at the Hilton’s most recent edition of the event, last August, which has a hard crust and is spongy on the inside. Or chef Karthikeyan’s unique Maas-ka-pao, an ode to Goa’s love for canapes with a tart base made from a crumble of the popular pao. The filling, we find out, is an innovative liquified pâté of vindaloo and the final touch... a sphere of 10-year-old artisanal feni that makes the whole experience pop
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Life of poie
In using local Goan breads on a restobar or five-star menu, as opposed to the trending focaccia or pita, this movement supports over 300 registered bakers, as recorded by the All Goa Bakers and Confectioners’ Association, that are dwindling in number. And now, three years in, the effort is catching momentum. A few weeks ago, the Hilton Goa Resort introduced a high tea featuring popular asks from The Poder Chronicles, so guests don’t have to wait for the second half of the year for the property’s flagship event to revisit flavours like juicy slow-cooked barbeque pork wrapped in a poie (Pork-a-que), shawarma-style or for vegans, cafreal mock meat and avocado with edible flowers and microgreens served on bangle bread (Avo Kankonn).
Bread in history
For a brief context on the history of these breads, Karthikeyan K, executive chef at the Hilton Goa Resort tells us, “Goan bread culture dates back to the 14th and 15th century where the invading Portuguese introduced the concept to Goan households. However, over a period of time, this cultural interest has faded away and we at Hilton Goa Resort wanted to revive this rich baking tradition.” So, while you soak up the sun on your next Goan holiday, consider picking up a warm poie to soak up a fiery vindaloo or sorpotel. Or opt for a roadside pao paired with the ros omelette or a meat cutlet. Pro tip: find yourself a spot that sources their bread from a paderia (bakery) that still uses toddy for the fermenting process like the Portuguese did it, instead of the now commonly used yeast. It might be a bit more expensive, but these rise to the occasion every time.
At Doce, Hilton Goa Resort. Goan Charlie with unlimited artisanal tea at INR 699 ++.