With the arrival of chef Irfan Pabaney, who is now the country head, Irani-style cafe Sodabottleopenerwala (SBOW) also introduced a brand new menu. While favourites such as Patra Ni Macchi and Berry Pulao continue to feature on the list, the rest of the menu is an expression of the chef’s skills that extend beyond Parsi food.
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Chaat me up
We dropped by on a weekday for a leisurely lunch and were surprised by the non-Parsi offerings. First, we sampled the Palak Patta Pakoda Chaat — crispy, creamy, sweet and just a touch spicy, this ‘Bar Snack’ hit the spot. Then, we tucked into a serving of Staff Pickle Achari Murgh. Chicken was marinated in tikka masala, pickle and yoghurt for a unique dish that was tangy and packed with flavour. Next was the Chicken Ghee Roast, which takes inspiration from the Mangalorean community of Bombay. While it was fragrant and well-cooked, we found it to be lacking the richness of ghee. But we thoroughly enjoyed the next appetiser — Mutton Pepper Fry. Spiced with ground black pepper and curry leaves, it is an ode to the ‘Shetty’ bars of Bombay.
Snack attack
An interesting inclusion in the revamped menu is the ‘Khari Pizza’ section. Ideal for an evening snack, it features a khari base with an assortment of toppings. Options include Paneer Masala, Classic Mushroom and Chicken Masala. For something typically Parsi, opt for the Coconut Wala Daal. An invention of Parsis who settled in Goa, this version uses grated coconut and coconut milk for a dish that’s creamy and luscious. This paired well with steamed rice and Gehu Ni Rotli or chapati. Though the dessert section has nothing new, we rounded things off with the Parsi Dairy Kulfi, which is flown in from the manufacturing unit in Mumbai.
By extending the menu to include food that is not strictly Parsi but quintessentially ‘Mumbai’, SBOW aims to give Bengalureans an authentic taste of the city.
Rs.2,100++ for two. At Lavelle Road