IT’S A CELEBRATION of a different kind when the monsoon arrives in Bengal. Of course, we have staples like khichuri and telebhaja (fritters) on our plates but ilish or hilsa takes the merriment to a different level with its succulent flesh and distinct taste. Keeping with the seasonal produce of fish, junior sous chef Priyabrata Pani at Aromas, Kenilworth Hotel, has decided to showcase traditional ilish recipes with Thai and Mughlai twists to create a platter that scores high on taste and flavour.
We began our rendezvous with the qwwueen of fish with Sorshe Ilish and steamed rice. It’s a flavourful bonhomie between the quintessential spice in the Bengali kitchen — mustard, and the bony and succulent freshwater fish. Served with papad bhaja and panchforon mango chutney, it is the ideal com fort food during monsoon. Moving on to appetisers, the wispy and fluffy Ilish Kobiraji served with gondhoraj or kaffir lime tartare will make you gorge on the delicacy. It was certainly a fine display of balanced spices in the minced meat. The creamy and aromatic condiment enhances the taste of kobiraji with every bite.
From the traditional recipes we moved on to the fusion options and the interplay of mustard and chillis in Dum Ki Ilish Biryani was remarkable. A new entrant in the annual hilsa menu, the biryani served with Kancha Lonka Sorshe Jhol (green chillies and a mustard-based condiment) was flavoursome. Impressed with the biryani, we gave the jhol a miss and relished the taste of the biryani. The next two dishes highlighted the chef's innovative spirit and are highly recommended. The first one, Smoked Hilsa Fillet and Kancha Kola Sorshe Gnocchi with Steamed Broccoli stood out for the smoky flavour of the boneless strips of the fish laced with a mild mustard sauce. The plantain gnocchi tempered with chilli flakes complemented the tender and juicy fish very well. The next one was certainly worth the wait, as the Hilsa with Thai Green Curry served with Gondhoraj Gobindo Bhog Rice was an explosion of aroma. The lemongrass and gond- horaj delightfully played with our olfactory senses, reiterating the versatility of the fish when in the hands of chef Priyabrata. “Ilish is a celebration in itself and each year we try and add something new to the menu. We have kept some of the popular items intact and added a couple of fusion recipes. Our patrons love our innovations,” said Rohit Sharma, Assistant F&B Manager, Kenilworth Hotel.
From July 1 to August 31.
Noon to 11pm.
Rs 1,800 plus taxes for two.