Secret Story, Chennai’s hottest new restobar, just opened its doors in Nungambakkam. Located at The Slate hotel on Khader Nawaz Khan Road (recently reopened), expect a swanky dual-level space with a relaxed lounge ambience and tropical accents, courtesy an architect from Bali, we’re told. “This a café bar, not a night bar,” partner Varun Ganesan sets the tone for us, as we settle in. This means he elaborates, a space that caters to lunches and early evening unwind sessions beyond the late-night pub crawl, party regulars are used to.
Ice, spice, baby
A quick browse of the menu by consultant chef Vijaykumar Manikandan reveals a broad selection of cuisines including European, Cantonese and Pan Asian, as well as Progressive Indian. Meanwhile, the eclectic range of cocktails from mixologist S Shivakumar reveal a story in every glass (in tune with the name Secret Story). One cocktail arrives in a pickle jar, inspired by his grandmother, while another is poured into a camera lens, harking back to a movie that made an impression on him, The Age of Adaline. If you’ve seen it, then you probably remember the plot line (a fresh-faced protagonist played by Blake Lively, who never ages) — so expect ‘age reversal’ ingredients in the mix, like edible glycerin that pairs with a delicate blend of gin, white wine and watermelon. Sweet, heady, and anti-aging!
Also sweet is our hummus platter. A hit at the launch party last week, this recipe swaps chickpeas for a blend of sweet potato and cashew paste instead. We try it quite gingerly with charcoal spheres of black pita, and find ourselves dipping in repeatedly as the evening progresses. While we enjoy the presentation of ‘fish fingers in shot glasses’ and a curious Kunaffa Kola Urundai — the appetiser that really hit that sweet spot for us was a classic Mediterranean Spanakopita. Golden filo pastry triangles filled with the goodness of spinach and ricotta had us hooked, quite literally till the plate was clean.
Gnocchi on heaven’s door
Later, we are told that risotto and pasta were en route for the main course. And so, of course, expect flavours we have tried before. But instead of a traditional white sauce or flavours of mushroom, the Risotto arrives with a tangy sauce of blitzed cherry tomatoes and white wine. Hearty, sweet and tangy. The latter is neither penne nor spaghetti but surprise, surprise, a double-tone plate of black and white gnocchi. We enjoy the delicate flavours of garlic and basil on the potato dumplings, laced with parmesan for a hint of indulgence. Dessert is another winner: an elevated take on the classic apple pie with ‘stewed apple halwa’ topped with cinnamon cream... Sigh, do we hear Stairway to Heaven playing softly in the background?
Meal for two at INR 1,800.