This new eatery at Madhapur serves North Indian comfort food in a vibrant setting

Fusion seems to be the theme of the millennium in India, ever since we discovered diverse cultures, food habits and design styles a few decades ago. Add a touch of globalisation to that, and we often find ourselves in a balancing act of embracing modernity while holding onto our rich culture.

A step into Native Katha felt like a mellifluous blend of the contemporary Indian, right from the life size mural of a quirky sari clad woman with a pixie cut and cool sunnies, to the décor that showcased regal Indian artistry in a modern, functional setting. As we settled under the cane lamps that enveloped the space in a warm glow, we were mesmerised by the numerous Pichwai wall plates while Carnatic fusion music set the vibe for the evening. “At Native Katha, we want to tell stories of our roots. We celebrate local artists whose work we hope to showcase at our space very soon,” says Aanosh Marshall, founder of Native Katha. With South Indian restaurants mushrooming by the minute in Hyderabad, the eatery takes a detour from the regular and focuses on North Indian comfort food with a few additions from across the subcontinent.

We started our meal with the Beetroot papdi chaat — a tangy and bright pink yoghurt served atop papdi, generously topped with bhujia. Soon, a platter of Amritsari kukkad naan bombs were brought in, served alongside a mint chutney and laccha onion. The piping hot mini kulcha stuffed with chicken in a blend of Amritsari masalas hit it out of the park with their subtle flavours, reminding us of why North Indian cuisine is so popular, even in a biryani-loving city like Hyderabad. Surprisingly, none of the dishes were greasy or overly spicy, which we were told is a conscious attempt by the team to ensure the food isn’t heavy on the stomach.

We then moved onto the main course starting with the Parsi prawn curry, a coconut based tangy gravy best paired with a bowl of hot, steamed rice. The Paneer tikka masala would be our recommendation for our vegetarian friends paired with the eatery’s Kalonji dhaniya kulcha. We’d be committing a cardinal sin if we stepped out of a North Indian joint without gorging on some heavenly butter chicken. T he Smoked butter chicken certainly hit the mark with its supremely creamy, slightly sweet gravy that made us take a pause, forget the world around us and revel in its goodness. For dessert, we picked the Old fashioned chocolate cake that offered a rich and satisfying note to end our meal on.

Rs 800 for two. At Madhapur.