Ever since its launch, Varq at Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi has wowed its patrons with its ingenious modern Indian dishes, such as the Makai ka shorba — corn broth served with popcorn, and Tomato and mozzarella kulcha — Amritsari kulcha stuffed with tomato and cheese. The Taj West End,
through its new initiative—Culinary Trails, brings the popular restaurant to the city for a quick pop-up.
We start our tasting session with an amuse bouche of Mini appams, not bigger than a little dumpling.
Topped with paneer seasoned with pepper and gunpowder, it is piquant, with a touch of sweet-ness, and perfectly sets the tone for what is to follow. The next dish in is a duet of starters — Ambedi fish tikka and Ganderi kebab. The River sole is so fresh, you can almost hear the gushing river. Marinated in spiced yoghurt and raw mango, it is cooked to flaky perfection. However, the kebab is far more impressive. Served in a shot glass with a spiced tamarind sauce and on a sugarcane stick, the minced chicken is tossed with fresh herbs to give it depth and flavour.
As the next drink is brought in, quite a few ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ punctuate the chilly evening air at the outdoor setting of the Masala Klub. The Kale channe ki cappuccino turns out to be as delicious as its name is unusual. A soup made with chickpeas, it is served in an espresso shot glass with a topping of thick white foam. This is followed up with another dish that elicits much appreciation at the table— the Raw mango sorbet placed in a bowl over liquid nitrogen. The theatricality aside, this is an impr-essive sorbet of familiar flavours and a strong hit of spice. For mains, we opt for the Murg sirka pyaz —chicken tikka in a tomato gravy with pickled onions encircled by golden brown flaky pastry. The curry is tangy and the pickled onions and pastry add texture. This is best paired with their Camembert and truffle naan. The earthy, umami notes from the cheese and truffle contrast and complement the tart curry with equal refinement, making this the highlight of our meal.
The dessert course is heavy on kalakand, but we’re not complaining. We sample a serving of kalakand and blueberry dumpling encased in crisp filo pastry. The two flavours work well together. Next is a jalebi on a bed of crumbly kalakand. This too passes muster. The Apple kheer, however, is the best of the three. The dessert of Granny Smith apples stewed with reduced milk and nuts is topped with a crisp ‘apple chip’ for some crunch. The meal draws to a close with a helping of rose petal tisane that tastes like preserved roses and rain.
Until Sunday. Rs.3,500 upwards. At The Taj West End, Race Course Road. Details: 66605660