At first glance, Golden Lobster looks much like many of the Kochi’s other Oriental eateries. Artichoke leaf pagodas, dim ambient-lighting, barely-used wooden chopsticks, and splashy red-gold interiors with way too many tables crammed into 3,800 sq ft.
But if you can—ignore the Guzheng in the background providing the soundtrack to your dining experience—take a closer look at their extensive menu. You’ll discover that it boasts signature dishes including chilli crab balls, braised pork with bean sprouts (grown in-house), live-cooked tom yum mixed soup, and of course, Cantonese-style lobster. And almost all of these delicacies, are truly delightful.
Follow the wok
Before I meet the owner, D Mathews, I hear him discussing with the staff that “the ridges on the fried wonton’s aren’t uniformly folded”. Once assured that these chicken-filled crispy starters are appetising (especially when dropped in their Szechuan dip), Mathews beams and joins me at the table.
Curious about this amiable 65-year-old’s obsession with perfection, I attempt to gently prod into his past—whilst simultaneously demolishing a basket of surprisingly large translucent momos doused in garlic sauce. “My career in the hospitality industry can be traced back to 1975 when I was a restaurant manager at Holiday Inn, Salalah,” begins Mathews.
“Eventually, I quit. Then for the next three decades, I owned/operated several resto-bars and eateries namely Pandhal, Chinese Garden, Red Lobster, Chopsticks, Nile Palace, and Asian Delight (all of which were located in Qatar, Dubai, Oman, and Bahrain). Fast forward to 2017—I’ve wrapped up all of the GCC outlets and opened Golden Lobster back home,” he adds.
Beyond Chinatown
This 80-cover also concentrates on a wide range Thai specials usually served in the Isan and Central Plains. So, I opt for a stir-fried Pad Thai topped with a tangy-yet-spicy sauce served alongside their insipid braised pork (save for the fresh basil and bean sprouts plucked from their garden).
One dish I recommend that everyone sample is the chef’s trademark Bangkok beef. This soy-marinated, pepper-salt sprinkled, fried dish (almost) magically maintains the meat’s silkiness and pairs brilliantly with their hand-made chicken noodles. While I’m too stuffed to try their fried ice cream, I leave with a thought gnawing away at my insides: you know what they say about judging an eatery, by its interiors—don’t.
Meal for two `500 onwards.
At A M Thomas Road. Details: 4051222
anoop.p@newindianexpress.com
@godsonlymistake